When I bought my blazer and watched the seller drive away in a friends car from our meeting spot I organized my paperwork and took a few minutes before starting the truck up. I never thought during my inspection and test drive to start the truck myself... he had started it for me so i didn't realize you had to insert the key, draw it out about a millimeter before you could turn in on. For the past 11 months i've done it on instinct and with rare exception the key turns and the truck starts. It's only a nuicance when i park valet and have to explain to someone to pull the key back out a mm...but that only happened once.

In the past week it's gotten worse and now occasionally it takes me a few minutes to find the 'sweet spot' that will allow the key to turn. This behavior is the same with the primary key and my backup key so I figure it's the ignition.

My question is...what is causing this and how easy is it to swap out the ignition piece(and what does it constitute?)

 

Have you ever lubricated the lock cylinder? For our pass-lock setup, there really are not a whole lot of restrictions as far as lubricant goes. I have always had good luck using dry powdered graphite. This is not a more is better type situation though. I would put a dab inside the lock cylinder, then work the key in and the cylinder around to its various positions. Repeat as necessary, but do so sparingly.

If this does not work, you may need a new ignition lock cylinder.

 

I'll try the lubrication. When you say work the key in and around it's various positions you mean, on, run, accessory etc?

Is the lock cylinder fairly straightforward to replace? Just remove the upper and lower plastic panels to access? ..or is it nasty?

thanks!

 

Yes, ON, RUN, ACC, OFF. Just work it around, removing the key every once in awhile. If it does not get better after two or three applications of powdered graphite, stop.

And yes, the lock cylinder is fairly straight forward to replace. There are some tricks IIRC, but I would have to look up the specifics to be able to detail them...

 

Thanks again Kyle.

It's a holiday here today...i'll get the lube tomorrow and try that first

 

Okay the lube idea unfortunately didnt' work out.

I've priced the cylinder new...$150 and have a few wreckers searching for it.

I guess this weekend it's install time..hope it's not too cold out

 

Okay so my cylinder and two keys are coming tomorrow.

Here's what my searching got. Am i on the right track?

You have to be able to turn the ignition cylinder to the 'START' position, then depress the ignition lock cylinder retaining pin, rotate the ignition cylinder to the 'RUN' position and pull it out of the housing.

I take it I need the key in the ignition to do this? The retaining pin is in a little hole above the cylinder i'll be able to see once i get the plastic panels off?


If your vehicle is equiped with the passlock system, you will then need to perform a passlock relearn.

How do I know if my vehicle has the passlock, is that on the VIN codes? Only if I have a key with a resistor? Did 99's even have this option?

I found this article on the process.

http://www.bsecorp.com/files/techtips/ST9303l.pdf

 

Update: FIXED!

It was a bit trickier to get out then described but it worked... also didn't just go back in, i had to insert a screwdriver into the ignition lock hole and rotate the little rectangle thing but once i figured that out i was golden.

The other confusing part is i didn't have to relearn the Passlock. I have a 99 zr2 .. i figured it had that but i guess not. The truck fired up and ran fine without doing anything.

Oh well

It's so nice to be able to just put the key in and turn it again...i'll never take that feeling for granted again LOL

 

You didn't have to relearn the theft system because you didn't replace the passlock sensor, but your truck does have it.