Hey everybody, I'm gonna be removing my dizzy tomorrow but just wanted to know if its alright to turn the motor over by hand with the distributor in until the rotor lines up to the arrow on the distributor itself, and then removing it. Seems like it would be easier to remove it this way and not worry about lining up the distributor to the marks or messing up the position. Thanks for the help!

 

Ignition in the OFF position: Using a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft bolt, rotate the shaft clockwise until the rotor lines up with the "6" on the distributor housing. When reinstalling, make sure the rotor points to the "6" with the distributor fully seated against the intake manifold. Do NOT rotate the crankshaft, or operate the starter, while the distributor is removed.

 

Thank you Sir

 

Check. Recommend unplugging the secondary from coil or the distributor, before putting wrench on a crank, too. Key out of the switch is nice but still, never fun sitting in the ER while they sew your hand back onto your nose, thinking "How could that cylinder everrr have fireddd ???" "But the key was turned off, doc!"

1999- a 5/8 or a 16mm socket with a 1/2" ratchet and short extension works well.

Note: As correctly stated, align w/ the '6' (which indicates the distributor is for 6 cylinder engines. V-8's have an "8" on the distrbr rim) (Nothing to do with cylinder 6.)
That's the firing position for #1 Cylinder TDC / compression if you're on a stock setup. Tip to prevent minor headache:
Take the cap off of distributor before removing clamp. As you extract the distributor go smooth and slowly and watch as the helical mesh rotates CC. If you're careful you can note the position rotor is at as it stops rotation. Mark that mentally or w/ paint stick dab. You'll want to "lead" the rotation (helical drive gears meshing) when reinstalling.
There is a line scribed or painted on a lot of replacement Delphi's and Cardone's. That line provides guide position of the rotor. Align the rotor tip with the painted scribe and rotor is positioned correct degrees counter clockwise of where it will rotate to as the drive helix meshes. It's just an assist marker. It will then end up on the "6" mark after you stab it... and, if you haven't bumped things around, very little jigglin' will be required to fully engage the oil pump drive shaft (slot and tang), allowing distributor housing to fall down flush and flat onto the block.

Potentially useless info if you have to initially time a Chevy V-6:
I have found 2 or 3 harmonic balancers, (out of 2 dozen rebuilds) that had "slipped" over the years and the reference scribes were no longer useful. (The balancer is comprised of two wheels joined with rubber and sometimes a pin. Dried out shrunken rubber and / or pin out could let the outer (scribed) wheel rotate independently. When timing chain sprocket marks are at 12 o'clock (crank) and six o'clock (cam) you are setting the #4 cylinder at TDC compression, not #1.
If you don't disturb the engine though, nothing can possibly go wrong, right? :-)