you WILL not get the adj. you need with a new dist. you need to( Ihad to) make the adj. hole bigger on the dist. to get the adj. needed. These trucks very rarely jump the timing chain

 

It's another way of saying that the distributor is in wrong (cam sensor is inside of the distributor, and distributor is driven off the back of the camshaft). If it still has the P1345 and it runs, the distributor is in a tooth off. If so, put back on TDC#1, pull the distributor and try again. At TDC#1, rotor should point to the #6 cast into the top of the distributor housing where the cap sits. Once you get rid of the P1345, only then set the cam retard to 0 +/- 2 degrees using single asterick CMP Retard in Car Gauge Pro.

As an aside, both double and single asterick CMP retard in Car Gauge Pro approach zero at the same time.

 

The rotor needs to be off counterclockwise a bit BEFORE dropping it in. It will turn clockwise as it sets in

 

I think the OP was trying to drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing to something else than the stamped "6". Note that he claimed "dizzy on #1"

 

Ahhh yes, common mistake

 

Looks like OP has not been back since his last post 2 days ago. Sometimes we just waste our time.

 

Just getting back to forum, took some time to do some tractor work. The engine was not making any noise other than sputtering after driving to store and sitting for short period of time which I researched and came to the conclusion that water/coolant was seeping into rear cylinders and took a little time to clear out before it would run normal. Now as for Modifying the hold down bracket I suggested that myself BUT got no clear indication that I should perform that task,even brought my reamer home from work but did not do that. So that was in the links because I totally missed it. My Bad. When I get time possibly this weekend I am planning to remove all the plugs and do a Compression test to make sure It has not damaged any valves or push rods. Will update results unless you think I should just start with Bracket mod and ignore noises.

 

Ok, just got through page 3 sorry for needing to do life I know you are all taking your time to help me straighten this dizzy thing out and I really appreciate it and I understand that you don't and shouldn't have a lot of faith in the man on the other side of the keyboard but let me assure you the dizzy is in the correct tooth. As i said before plug out compression gauge in compression stroke and marks on Harmonic Bal aligned with both marks in links. Rotor pointing at triangle with 6 stamped on it. Pull compression gauge and confirm with screwdriver we are at the top. Know that I totally missed the Bracket mod but as she ran at idle for 5 maybe 10 mins started to get very noisy and have not touched it since. I feel that I do need help with what to do next.Thanks the OP/Bob. By now possibly SOBob.

 

I also do realize that the rotor turns as it drops in and should end up on the triangle not start there and advance past it. Lesmyer you mentioned that both double and single asterick CMP retard in Car Gauge Pro approach zero at the same time. Why are my initial readings 6 something* and 17 something**?

 

Rescaned and there are No Codes showing up.