Wow! Sorry, I just now caught the info about the P0341. This code would set if the engine is run without the cam sensor being connected. Are you saying that you just now set this code? if so, can you clear it and get it to repeat?

 

There was an instance where I did forget to plug in the cam sensor after I installed the distributor when I finished trying to dremel out the bolt hole. I didn't notice this until I realize CMP retard was stuck at -10 and didn't change regardless of adjustment. At that time it didn't set a P0341. I don't know why it would now with everything plugged in.

 

It should have set a code back when it was run disconnected. Maybe it is just a left-over from then. If you clear it now, will it set this code again?

 

I'll start working on this soon. I have better data to share from ealier this morning.

I went back out and recorded the number again. This time I was able to save the generated CSV data. I graphed all these data points to a line chart.
The first chart was waiting for the fuel system status to close and then I raised the RPM to 2000.
The second chart is fuel status already closed and I raised the RPM to about 2000 twice.
Each data point is not exactly one second apart. It varies. I don't know why BlueDriver logs data like this, it just does. I really hope this helps cause I went a little out of the way with Photoshop trying to make these easier to intrepret.
I'll attach the raw data I used to generate the graphs from too.

In the sceond chart, Bank 1 Sensor 2 is a little suspect to me. This is the one after the catalyst, and isn't it suppose to be within 0.6 and 0.8 when everything is warmed up?
These are brand new Walker O2 Sensors too, so I don't suspect they're malfunctioning.

 

Alrighty...
There is no obstruction to the air filter box. Air filter is also new and still clean.
MAF reads between 5.72 and 7.92 g/s at idle. (Am I suppose to test it at wide open throttle too? I pulled this number from an old recording.)
MAP reads 100 kPa engine off here in Florida.
Coolant temp read 101 F (still warm from this morning).
Ambient reads 88 F (it is a hot day with the sun beating on my garage door).
TPS reads between -1.7% closed and 83.9% wide open. This is a new sensor I installed last year to solve an RPM idle surge that would rarely appear. IACV is new too.

I didn't check the fuel pressure regulator for leaks yet. I wasn't sure if I should before or after testing the EVAP system.
When you say EVAP system, do you mean disconnect the EVAP purge solenoid next to the plenum or the EVAP canister under the truck?
Am I unplugging the electrical connectors for EVAP solenoids or just the vapor hoses and plugging them?

I cleared the codes for P0301 and P0341. But weirdly DashCommand and BlueDriver seem to report different codes.
Instead of P0301 that BlueDriver Reports, DashCammand reports P0300.
DashCommand doesn't see P0341 at all, but it does see C0265 EBCM Motor Relay Circuit. Still reading about what this code is about because it doesn't clear and BlueDriver doesn't see it.

 

Yes, those plots are great! System is controlling fuel per the O2 sensor feedback. Pre-cat O2 sensors for both banks seem normal and are swinging above and below 0.45 volts - so fuel mix is actually controlling where the PCM tells it to go, based on O2 sensors. But fuel trims say the amount of fuel in factory calibration for 2000 rpm gives too rich of a mixture, and PCM has to take fuel out to make things right. Can't really tell about post cat o2 sensor with slow scan speed, but it will go high and low above the voltages you mention - normally - but should never be on the same cycle as pre-cat O2 sensors. The cat converter has a capacity to store oxygen, and this buffers and delays the swinging up and down of the post cat O2 sensor voltage. If they swing up and down together without a delay, the converter has no oxygen capacity. This is how the PCM tells if the converter is bad.

So I'm speculating that if all the inputs going into the PCM are good, then there is some sort of mechanical problem that is causing it to run poorly at idle with normal fuel trims, but also leading to the negative fuel trims at 2000. I do not know what would exactly cause both things (maybe restricted exhaust or a leaky valve). But there is a very slick way to evaluate and diagnose the volumetric efficiency of cylinders, and certain observations mean different things that can cause density misfires like a leaky valve, restricted exhaust/converter or intake, worn cam lobe, etc. Since fuel injection seems to be working OK, all should hash hash out when you do a running compression/snap test and compare to static compression test. But please first check out the sensors that I previously mentioned to complete the fuel injection system possibilities.

You can read up on the running compression test here, and put it on deck for next. It's kind of a pain to do on a Blazer, so I tend to use it last:

https://www.alldata.com/us/en/suppor...pression-tests

 

Yes, wide open throttle as trans gets ready to shift into second gear.
Purge solenoid next to the plenum - I would do the vapor hoses since that is a definitive test.
EBCM (electronic brake control module) is for the ABS. Not sure about difference unless some are history codes, some are pending codes, and some are current codes.
TPS is a little off but I can't see that causing the issue.

 

Oh right, of course, ABS. Yeah there is an ABS issue I haven't figured out yet either. BlueDriver puts this under a different category.
If the fuel regulator is leaking, wouldn't that invalidate EVAP tests? Should I take the pluenum off first and investigate?

 

I took it out for a test drive to measure air intake (but also to get gas). I just didn't want to rev the engine that hard in my garage.
So while going down the road, shift to neutral, and I raised the RPM up to 5,000 trying to avoid going into the red line. This wasn't my foot all the way down, so this wasn't 100% throttle (or rather 83.9% as per the previous TPS measurement).
The highest air intake I measured was 63 g/s, and you're saying to should be closer to 100 g/s near 5000 RPM?

So leaving the garage for the first time in 3 weeks, It goes down the road perfectly fine. No shakes or shudders. Still very rough idle and low power. RPM drops too low when coming to a stop.

 

Just floor the pedal from 10 mph with the trans in drive and look at MAF just before the automatic 1-2 shift. Has to be full throttle on the floor (but no neutral). Should be >130g/sec