I have a 2001 s10 trailblazer. For a while my driver window will not open, and when I push the button it will go click, click, click. This leads me to believe that the power is going to the switch.I've long since misplaced my chilton break-down book. I hopesomebody could tell me how to get the panel off my door without breaking the thing. Thank you in advance.

 

Well, to let you know, there are only two things that can be wrong (ive been there with the same symptoms), either there is a bad connection to the power window motor, or its pretty well and hosed. Either way, like ya said, the door has to come off to check. To got it off look up and under the door handle/arm restand you will see two bolts. They should be 10mm, remove those. Next take out the screw holding in the trim plate around the pull handle. Pry the forward edge of the trim piece out and then slide forward and rotate 90 degrees to slide it over the handle.
Now all that will be holding the door shellon are the cable to the window controls and the pegs around the door shell. Rather than attempting to remove the plugs to the switch, leave it connected because you will need it for testing later anyways and its just easier. Before we get to that though, we need to pry the shell away. Take a flatblade screwdriver and work your way around the edge until all the pegs let loose. Lift the shell up to release it from the window sill and then set it down. Now the window switch is still attached. Lift up on the front edge of that panel to pop it loose then push it through the opening that it is connected through.

Now you access to the inner door and have the switch at hand. But you will notice, you cant see the motor. Thats because its under that black shield you see. Peel it back and set it aside trying not to get anything stuck in the goo that held it in place as you will need to stick it back later.

From here start testing. If the motor is bad, see Flux's how to in the DIY section on how to replace it.

 

I had the same problem with my driver's side window. It was a bad regulator. It wasn't too awful hard to replace. It is riveted in place, so you have to drill out the old rivets and shoot new rivots. The procedure is in the Haynes Manual. Hope this helps.