I have some problems with my '97 Bravada that I think will be fixed by changing out the ignition switch. A search of these forums resulted in a match in the symptoms of my Bravada: it will die while driving, sometimes, when you go turn the key to start it the engine will turn over, but nothing else happens (no fuel pump operation, no radio, no dashboard lights, etc.). Anyway, it was recommened to change the electrical ignition switch.

My question is, how? I have not had to do this before. I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I did extensive work on my '78 Jeep CJ-7 (filters, gaskets, exhaust manifold stuff). Can anyone give me a link to a how-to sight, or even some simple step by step instructions so I know what I'm getting into?










The only Benado wondering what tools and how long it would take to replace my ignition switch.

 

I believe that it doesn't require vasts amounts of work... As far as tools, a phillips screw driver and an assortment of deep metric sockets and possibly an extension (1/4" drive should do the trick) as well as an assortment of torx bits.

Not having done this repair before, I can't give you any pearls of first-hand wisdom. I've had my share of steering columns apart, but not in a Blazer.

So... Step by step eh...

[ol][*]Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System in Air Bag Systems.[*]Remove the steering column trim covers from the steering column. Refer to Steering Column Trim Cover Replacement - On Vehicle.[*]Disconnect the steering column electrical connectors.[*]Remove the wire harness assembly from the steering column and the wire harness strap.[*]Slide the 2 connectors (2) of the turn signal and multifunction switch assembly out of the bulkhead connector (1).[*]Remove the key alarm connector (1) from the lock module assembly (2) in the following way:
[ul][*]Rotate the key alarm connector (1) 90 degrees.[*]Pull the key alarm connector (1) out of the lock module assembly (2).[*]Remove the passkey connector from the lock module assembly (2).
[/ul][*]Remove the connector (2) from the electric park lock (1), for vehicles equipped with floor shifters.[*]Slide the ignition and key alarm switch assembly (2) out of the lock module assembly (1).
[/ol]

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Just a heads up...these switches are held in with an inverted torx bolt........size E4 and it has to be a deep-well to clear the Ignition switch body. I bought mine from matco tools......but I was able to get these bolts out (slowly) with a pair of needle nose pliers once.

Welcome to the forum!!

 

Thanks for the tip!


"Refer to Disabling the SIR System in Air Bag Systems. "
Where, exactly, can I find this?










The only Benado that certainly feels like a newbie!

 

The actual process is pretty lengthy, but I believe that removing the airbag fuse (SIR for my 2000) from the interior fuse panel should disable the system. You may want to wait atleast 15 minutes after pulling the fuse before pulling things apart.

 

I just did my 2001 Blazer LT yesterday. This might be of some help.

There weren't any inverted torx bolts holding the switch in on my blazer. This is after you get to the switch and take the steering column off etc. Also disconnect the wires attached to the switch that are connected near the key tumbler.

When you look at the switch from the passenger side of the car you notice two small holes in the housing holding the switch. My housing looked to be aluminum. You have to stick a small screw driver in the holes to disengage the small spring loaded pins holding in the switch. I found it easier to start with the hole towards the front of the car which would be away from you sitting in the drivers seat. Stick the screw driver in the hole and you'll feel the spring loaded pin, then just slighty pull down on the switch on that side. It will only move like a centimeter or less which is fine. You just have to get the spring loaded pin started past whatever is holding it in. Then do the same with the hole towards the back of the vehicle or closest to you. Once you get those pins past whatever is holding them in, it will just pull out. Two screw drivers and three hands would be nice but.....
If you look at the new switch you'll notice the pins I am talking about. I would've never known how to get this out without looking at the new switch.

Also, very important. When you take out the old switch (hopefully you had the key in the off position) notice how the white plastic gears are positioned and line up the new switch gears the same way. The test is when you get the new switch in and connected properly turn the key and see if it "feels" right. It should start in the off position, then you turn it to where the accessory position would be, turn it further then it should feel like the spring pushing it back to where the on position is. It should basically feel like it used to. If not pop out the switch using those two little springs in the holes and readjust the gears till it feels right. When it "feels" right before putting back together the steering column and dash, reconnect the battery and test it to make sure it starts. Then disconnect the battery again and put everything back together.

All together not a bad job for saving yourself probably a few hundred bucks. My switch cost $101 at the dealership. Autozone nor Advance carried it without special order. Autozone posted an $89 internet only part but I wanted to do the job yesterday.

BTW you can use the instructions for replacing or cleaning the multifunction switch up until you get to where you are working on the ignition switch instead of the multifunction switch. I had them in the garage after doing that job this summer. They will tell you how to take dash apart and disable airbag etc.