Electrical issue back hatch... HELP!!!
#11
Thanks for the schematics. I appreciate the help. I'll try troubleshooting again with those and then, if I still have no success, I think I will try to find a rear glass actuator and see what that does.
#12
Sorry for the long delay there, but I think you've misunderstood. In the list I had there, I meant that when the hatch pops, it does so without me touching the pushbutton. If I have the driver's door locked for any amount of time and then unlock it (whether manually or with the power lock switch) the back glass will pop open all by itself. If the doors are unlocked while driving and I stop and shift to neutral or park, then the back hatch will pop all by itself. The button on the tailgate doesn't work at all, and the one in the dash only works every now and then. I'm so frustrated with this now. I've checked the wiring, grounds, etc. and now replaced the switch (for that small amount of money I thought it was worth a try).
From reading this I would say the problem will be with the push button switch/actuator in the hatch, sounds like there is a bad connection in there so it thinks it is constantly being pressed to open hatch hence the reason the dash button doesn't work I had a similar problem on a holden commodore boot release.
If switch proves to be OK check wiring harness where it goes between body and tailgate it may have a broken wire or two. just another idea
From reading this I would say the problem will be with the push button switch/actuator in the hatch, sounds like there is a bad connection in there so it thinks it is constantly being pressed to open hatch hence the reason the dash button doesn't work I had a similar problem on a holden commodore boot release.
If switch proves to be OK check wiring harness where it goes between body and tailgate it may have a broken wire or two. just another idea
#19
I am actually dealing with the same thing right now, 96 chevy blazer 4 door, 4.3 vortec. I did see someone else post that they found a problem related to the actuator releasing the glass hatch. In my case i don't think that is causing the problem. I just did a lot of work on the car and removed and re-installed the VCM while working on AC system, and associated electrical connectors. I didn't have the problem before the work and now have problems starting and the excat same problem with the hatch popping when i shift from drive into neutral, i can't figure it out. I think it may be drawing current when the car is off and therfore causing battery problems also. I found a corroded wire harness off the positive battery terminal lead (not the main positive from the alternator). There is a smaller gauge wire to a fusible link with connector on it. that connector was filled with corrosion. I cleaned it up, re-charged the battery, started it up and everything worked perfectly- no hatch problem perfect. Drove it for a an hour or so, shut it down, then had problems re-starting, when i finally re-started, the same issue again the hatch pops when when i shift past nuetral into park. I beive it is a wiring grounding related, but have not figured it out yet myself. I checked all of the connectors i worked on when removing the VCM, and everything looks good. Tracing the grounding from the diagram seems confusing, if you don't have a good background in it.
#20
I know this is an old thread but it relates perfectly to the problem I'm having with my 97 AWD LT. I have tried to check all of the wiring but have had no success.Everything looks good.
Has anyone been able to repair this problem?
Please post a fix for it if it is possible to do.
Has anyone been able to repair this problem?
Please post a fix for it if it is possible to do.