Dont do the used engine unless you're going to do the intake gaskets and check the bearings before you put it in. and since you will have it down that far, mights well do head gaskets, too.

shrug

 

It depends on your situation at home, How is the money looking

Finde out how much it will cost for them to drop the pan and do the bearings.
Then finde out how much for a engine used and crate.
then figure out how much more you would be willing to put out for a different car/truck

Check craigs list alot of people are putting up there cars and trucks up about now, till like march. Income tax checks are starting to come in


As for my self I havent had any luck with just replaceing the bearings with out replaceing the crank with them

If you do the crank and bearings I would call that a winner then the bottom end will be new (as long as the truck is running strong trans and all)

thats only what I would do because I dont want to drop that pan again
Its too cold out right now for that dum SH** right now and my situation at home is good

 

yeah, everything else on the vehicle is great, transmission and body. Could afford new motor, but don't want to do that unless its the best idea. Have a buddy who will do the bearings, just not sure if its worth his time and the money i'd have to pay him to do it if its not going to last

 

Then whats the harm in doing the 20w 50 mobil idea? If you have the money to replace it, then why not try to run this engine till you blow something? Either way you will need to replace or rebuild.

 

you make a very good point....maybe I will

 

I did not know you could drop the pan on this engine with it installed.

If you are not going to rebuild the current engine then you really do not care if you waste the crank, etc. 20W-50 will beef up the oil film/pressure a bit. I was able to drive about 25 miles after the rod broke on the #5 with the bent valve. It never did more than mark the piston very hard over and over but the connecting rod broke but stayed in the hole for a long time while I was running about 60 MPH trying to get home. About a 100 foot from the drive way the rod knocked a hole in the side of the oil pan and cracked a chunk out of the block where that part of the pan screwed to the block.

If you have not spun a bearing yet it could run for many miles. From my recent experience one can knock really bad and still hold together better than expected.

Can you get a new long block for $1000? If so that should be considered.

I really think from my knocking experience you will know before you are going to throw a rod.

If you are going to buy a used engine and pull the heads, put in new bearings, rings ect just get you a long/short block from a good source.

Our 119K mile used engine looked new like when we pulled the valve covers and oil pan. Without a question it had had some very good oil and service since it was new. We did not touch the bearings or heads but did redo the intake manifold gaskets while on the engine stand. It looked like wet cardboard so it was nearing the expected failure point.

Keep us posted on what you decide and the long term results. We are at 193K miles on the 2002 Blazer and it still runs awesome and does not use oil. The 4.3 with 524,000 miles that we pulled out of the 1998 S10 had ZERO ring grove and sounded/ran great before the bending of the valve. While the oil gaskets/seals fail the long block itself can be good for 1 million miles if serviced well. I really expect the used 119K engine is now good for another 400,000 miles like the engine we just pulled.

 

We got a 1000 miles out of our 'ideal' used end but did get back home in it tonight with 20 PSI of oil pressure and it knocking.

I bought it off of CL so I have not one to come back on like if it had been a local yard. In putting two and two together I think the engine was clean on the inside because it had had coolant in the oil.

If you buy a used engine get it from a local yard that will stand behind it.

This is to the OP.

You may be better to ditch the Blazer in the long run $$$ wise since it is your daily driver and you need your main car to be a good one. There are a lot of really nice 100K mile options out there that are good for another 100K+ miles.

Fixing it up right with a short or long block remanufactured engine can be a good deal but when your heater core lets loose or your driverside window lift or your fuel pump fails you will start to think about how much money you are sinking into the Blazer.

Our is a PROJECT truck. My son is 19 months away from getting his driver license. We have 6 other running and tagged vehicles so I can let it set for a long time, sell it as is, pull the engine, boil the block and have the crank turned, etc.

Talk it over with the family and run with what ever you decide. There are new cars out there with 10 year/100K mile coverage I think. They come with a payment but driving old paid for vehicles come with a form of payment too.

The 2nd Gen S-series are ALL past their prime in both value and demand and I own two.

 

To the OP:
The problem with replacing the rod or main bearings is that either the engine has to come out of the vehicle, or the front axle has to be dropped....there is no room to drop the oil pan to get to the bearings.

The labor is the main cost here...not the parts. Best would be to pull the engine out and do a complete rebuild of it....but you are looking at $3000 or more for a shop to do this. Dropping the front differential is going to be the close the same cost but you would only get the bearings replaced....not worth it.

As mentioned above, the Blazers have past their prime...they are cheap to buy vehicles. Yes when cared for they will run for ever. My '95 had 243,000 on it and the engine was fine....but had other problems...driver's window motor, leaking trans rear seal, AC compressor out, already did the fuel pump, oh and it was purple.....sold it for $1280...and had a line of people wanting to buy it.

Put the heavier oil in this one and drive it...carefully. Let it warm-up before driving it...no putting the pedal to the floor and it may last 50,000 miles. In the meantime...save for another vehicle.

 

You never once gave mileage specifics... A 4.3 can go amazing miles-but at your point you need to do the math: Pull the block and do a total rebuild-or toss in a replacement!
I usually opt for this in unknown engine history! -The options also present them selves to put a small block V8 in as well! It basically boils down to just what kind of condition your Blazer is in. A new vehicle of equal capability is $30K at least-with payments! If your Blazer is in good shape (rust free)and you have the skills-rebuild it! These units should have a good parts availability for many years to come! Just a thought! step66

 

our mechanic friend has a motor on his own blazer that he is putting in, blazer was totaled but motor is good. Since it was his and he maintained it, should be fine. Thanks for all the advice