Ok got the code Captainhook mentioned 1345 so the distrib is out of time.I also thought on these engines the rotor is supposed to be pointed at #4 not 6so Im baffled.
As for the sending unit I`ll have to double check but I believe its plugged in

 

If the engine starts & runs, it's probably off by only one tooth.
Using a socket & ratchet on the crankshaft center bolt, manually rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the marks are aligned like the first image below, AND the distributor rotor is within a few degrees of the "6" in the second image. Keep in mind the crankshaft makes two revolutions for each one revolution of the distributor rotor. This means when the crank marks are aligned, the distributor rotor could be near the "6", or 180 degrees opposite. So make sure it is within a few degrees of the "6".








When turning the crankshaft, turn it clockwise ONLY. Once both are aligned correctly, remove the distributor and reinstall it so the rotor points to the "6" when the distributor is fully seated against the intake manifold. You might need to rotate the oil pump drive shaft if the distributor will not fully seat.

 

thanks Captainhook I figured this is what I was going to have to do uug!Things is the vehicle was timed correctly till the trans shop screwed it up!Thanks for your help I`ll get on this asap

 

Had a chance to work on this today,I got the timing marks lined up.Also have the distributor out,so that hopefully will get put in the right way tomorrow

 

Ok Saturday I did this procedure as describe.the engine ran better and wasn't spark knocking.It still seems like its out of time though.Would I get 1345 code of the time chain was off a tooth and would the engine run at all?When the engine was cold it idled perfectly smooth but then when it warmed up it has hesitation.
Also what is the second cable next to throttle boddy?Is it the shifting cable for the trans or cruise control?

 

If you are still getting a P1345, then probably it's not in right. Is your SES light on when running? Have you cleared codes and the P1345 set again? Roll the engine over to TDC again now that the engine has run and recheck that the rotor is still pointing at the stamped "6" in the distributor housing.

Timing is determined by the crank sensor and PCM, not by the distributor. Function of distributor in these Blazers is only to distribute the spark to the right spark plug, and to provide a signal to the PCM (cam sensor) that tells it which cylinder is supposed to be firing for the purpose of timing sequential fuel injection pulses. To do this the rotor has to be pointing exactly at the expected terminal and the PCM evaluates this by comparing the relationship of the cam sensor signal to the crank sensor signal. If the cam retard value (relationship of cam sensor) is off over 23° or so (I think ideal spec is ±2.0°), it knows distributor is in at least 1 tooth off and it sets the P1345.

Even if your timing chain was off 1 tooth, you should still be able to drop the distributor in so the P1345 does not happen. I really doubt if timing gears being off is the problem. But if the distributor had never been out or turned, you are correct that getting the timing gears off would also throw off the cam signal.

Cold engine is richer and requires less spark energy to jump the plug gap than when engine is hot and leaned out. Higher spark energy is more likely to jump where it isn't supposed to inside the cap if the rotor is not pointing where it is supposed to be.

Second cable next to the thottle body is for the cruise control.

Good luck!

 

Ok as of right now I have the distributor out.turning this engine over by hand is a pia and so is installing the distributor.I plan on working on it again tomorrow so I`ll line everything up again and see if I can get it correct.I don't remember if the ses light or not.I wish there was a mark on the bottom of the engine to line up the other timing mark.So another question do I have to use the ob 11 code scanner to remove the code or will disconnecting the battery remove it?

 

Yes, use a scan tool to clear codes. Probaby Autozone or other parts stores will not clear codes for you (only read them) unless they know you and you have some relationship with them already. I think it has become against their company policies during the last few years.

If you paint both of the harmonic balancer marks with yellow or white, then it becomes quite easy to see alignment with the timing cover (use a flashlight). I just dropped my own distibutor in last night. Yes, agree it can be a pain to turn the engine with a ratchet to get that mark lined up exactly with the timing cover but it is important. I used a 3/8 drive torque wrench spun up to 65 ft/lbs (is longer than a ratchet for more leverage) with a 1" extension and a deep Snap-on 5/8" 6-point socket on the harmonic balancer bolt. Worked best with left hand holding torque wrench handle (pulling up), and right hand holding socket in place while looking down beside the A/C compressor at the marks. Wife holds flash light.

 

Ok so I realigned everything up and she runs much better.I don't have ses light on my dash board so I take it that's a good sign.I tried turning the oil pump shaft with a long screw driver,either its not long enough to reach the slot on the oil pump rod or Im having difficuly getting it to turn.All the marks are lighned up @ tdc rotor tip points at the # 6 on the distrib or close to it.Also what Im wondering with the distrib in place should it be a bit of center when the cap is on?Im ***-uming it has to be done this way or you wont or at least I cant get # 2 plug on.The engine has a slight miss which could be related to the fuel injectors but Im not totally sure.I know it fires up as soon as I hit the key which it wasn't doing before.Its also not driveable right now cause I have an issue with the abs.I`ll be working on it later today if not tomorrow.My other truck has had issues lately also so between the two my hands arms and shoulders are banged up,bruised up,scratched up and Im sore.Sorry to mean to seam like Im wining just not young anymore and bs is killing my body.So play the violin for me lol

 

I need an update on help for this blazer.As mentioned in my last post shes in time and run somewhat decent but could be running better.It doesn't idle perfectly smooth and seems to lack power when trying to gain speed.Once it gets over 35mph I hear a humming noise from the passenger front I believe?Could that be a stuck caliper?Also need help bleeding the brakes,I read in another post that I need some kinda speacil scan tool.Need help thanks