after years of working on this project I finaly have it running.Ist problem is my oil guage isn't working and I don't know why/
The engine was rebuilt by me and sounds very good at startup when its cold.
After it warms up it starts running like crap and when I drive it starts spark knocking realy bad.
Alsocan I use my timing light to check the time?

 

An inoperative EGR valve, or restricted EGR supply tube, will cause serious spark knock. A timing light is an obsolete tool on this vehicle. You can check timing on a scan tool, but it is not adjustable.

 

EGR tube I nevere heard of such thing,?Is that the tube that connects from the gas vent line underneither the truck then runs along the back of the engine with a rubber or plastic tube then connects to a pcv valve?The tube snaps on the has line fitting or something and theres an elbow where it rubs up againt the firewall?As far as I know the egrs valve is working.The plunger looks good and has a lot of pressure.
As far as timing you have to be able to programme it with the ob11 scan tool correct?

 

The EGR tube runs from the back of the drivers side exhaust manifold to the intake manifold just behind the A/C compressor.

 

Is it crossfiring inside the distributor cap due to bad cap, plug wire, spark plug or distributor being in a tooth off? Is it setting any PCM codes? Is the SES light on?

Define oil gauge not working. Reads high/low/what? Does it move at all?

Crank sensor relearn is only used to calibrate system for misfire detection. Computer controls timing based on raw crank sensor signal - distributor has nothing to do other than to pass the spark to the correct spark plug and return the cam position signal to the PCM for misfire detection and sequential fuel injector timing.

 

The reading the guage its all the over,pegged out out to the max.It doesn't move at all .Its like this on start up.So im wondering if its wired wrong or sending unit itself is bad?Yes its sending codes and its very much possible the distributor is not in the right spot.I had the truck in trans shop to fix the front pump and they had to remove the distributor.I would make them fix it but without taking legal action it wont happen.But they removed the distributor and put it back in wrong.

 

Pegged oil gauge usually means open in the circuit from the sending unit. But with late Blazers, the sending unit inputs to the PCM which in turn operates the gauge. Did the trans shop disconnect the sending unit and not hook it back up?

You will need to install the distributor correctly or at least check it. Rotor should point to (or very near to) the number 6 stamped in the distributor housing when engine is on TDC#1.

Good luck and best wishes,

Les

 

Did the engine get started with the torque converter not all the way into the front pump? I did this once a very very long time ago (15, first transmission), and it sheared things off inside the front pump of a Plymouth trans when I left the converter attached to flywheel and reinstalled the trans.

 

If P1345 is present after RPM is brought over 2K, the distributor is not timed correctly. If NOT, the distributor is timed correctly.

 

I haven't had time lately but I will check for codes today and report back.Thank you chuck for chiming in.Just wish you lived closer lol