Engine won’t start
The engine in my 1998 would not start this morning, I will try again later today after it has dried off (it rained last night) and the sun has warmed it up some.
For now though it cranks without issue but will not turn over. The battery gauge reads low maybe around 9 volts, however when I put a meter on the battery I read about 11.36, that is with the key on, and a bit over 12 with the key off. The battery is new, I got it in mid to late May. The distributor cap and rotor are also new, and installed in late June or early July.
When the key is in, and in the on position, but I am not trying to start the engine, I am seeing the service engine soon light, the ABS light (bad wheel bearings), and the battery light.
I had the codes pulled just a few days ago, the only code present was for the downstream (after the catalytic convertor) oxygen sensor, which cleared accidentally when I disconnected the battery to solder a cut wire going to the blower motor control unit.
About a week ago I replaced the PCV Valve, and the Air Filter. Yesterday I replaced the power mirror control switch. Also about a week ago I checked the oil and transmission fluid, both were good.
Any ideas?
For now though it cranks without issue but will not turn over. The battery gauge reads low maybe around 9 volts, however when I put a meter on the battery I read about 11.36, that is with the key on, and a bit over 12 with the key off. The battery is new, I got it in mid to late May. The distributor cap and rotor are also new, and installed in late June or early July.
When the key is in, and in the on position, but I am not trying to start the engine, I am seeing the service engine soon light, the ABS light (bad wheel bearings), and the battery light.
I had the codes pulled just a few days ago, the only code present was for the downstream (after the catalytic convertor) oxygen sensor, which cleared accidentally when I disconnected the battery to solder a cut wire going to the blower motor control unit.
About a week ago I replaced the PCV Valve, and the Air Filter. Yesterday I replaced the power mirror control switch. Also about a week ago I checked the oil and transmission fluid, both were good.
Any ideas?
So I tried again now that it has dried out and baked in the sun for awhile and it started right up with zero hesitation.
what could be causing the issue?
what could be causing the issue?
Last edited by Small Arms Collector; Aug 27, 2019 at 01:50 PM.
My in laws car would die when it rained, and over night, found out he had a short in his stereo, now he manually shuts it off every night, hasn't had a problem. I dont think it's related to his problem, but its working.
Could be something very small, electrical issues suck! Good luck.
Could be something very small, electrical issues suck! Good luck.
If it is starting now it would be anyones guess as to what caused the 'no start' previously. Although it doesn't make one feel too good, you may have to wait til the next 'no start' situation and let all us know and we'll offer some direction...jerry
Got back from the mechanic, plugs, wires, and coil all need replaced, apparently they are the originals from 1998.
Any recommendations on parts? I looked around some and it looks like prices are all over the place and I don’t know why.
Any recommendations on parts? I looked around some and it looks like prices are all over the place and I don’t know why.
So I need nee plugs and wires, my 1998 apparently still had the originals and it’s time to replace them, but since I’m replacing them, is an upgrade in order?
Is there any real benefit to performance spark plug wires? My main concern is longevity and preserving my performance the longest since the plugs and wires are so difficult to do.
I have heard some suggest that the old fashioned copper spark plugs are the best because they get the hottest and combining performance cables with exotic metal spark plugs can actually cause problems, is that true? Or am I better off with iridium or rubidium spark plugs for maximum durability?
Would adding performance spark plug wires throw off my tuning and require a reprogramming?
I also need to replace my coil (also the original 1998), would I get any benefit with adding a performance coil? Would that then require performance wires? Would that require a retune?
The truck is used as a daily driver but may do some sporadic mild to moderate off roading at some point in the future. The idea is to have a daily driver that can also handle tough conditions if necessary.
Is there any real benefit to performance spark plug wires? My main concern is longevity and preserving my performance the longest since the plugs and wires are so difficult to do.
I have heard some suggest that the old fashioned copper spark plugs are the best because they get the hottest and combining performance cables with exotic metal spark plugs can actually cause problems, is that true? Or am I better off with iridium or rubidium spark plugs for maximum durability?
Would adding performance spark plug wires throw off my tuning and require a reprogramming?
I also need to replace my coil (also the original 1998), would I get any benefit with adding a performance coil? Would that then require performance wires? Would that require a retune?
The truck is used as a daily driver but may do some sporadic mild to moderate off roading at some point in the future. The idea is to have a daily driver that can also handle tough conditions if necessary.
Best bang for you buck in my opinion is stick with all AC Delco replacements. Fairly priced on RockAuto and pretty much anywhere else.
AC Delco iridium spark plugs part number 41-993
AC Delco distributor cap part number D328A
AC Delco distributor rotor part number D465
I installed these during a tune up a little over 5 years ago and they've given me no issues at all, still in the truck now.
Only reason I would ever replace the wires is if one of them is chafed through, arching, and cause you issues. On these engines I personally don't think there's much to benefit from throwing on a set of MSD wires or anything like that. Factory AC Delco wires are 8mm if I'm not mistaken, and the MSD's are 8.5mm, not much of a jump there...
Same with the coil, I wouldn't bother unless the original dies or splits open and starts arching...
And if either of those were to ever give out, I would still just replace them with AC Delco stuff.
AC Delco iridium spark plugs part number 41-993
AC Delco distributor cap part number D328A
AC Delco distributor rotor part number D465
I installed these during a tune up a little over 5 years ago and they've given me no issues at all, still in the truck now.
Only reason I would ever replace the wires is if one of them is chafed through, arching, and cause you issues. On these engines I personally don't think there's much to benefit from throwing on a set of MSD wires or anything like that. Factory AC Delco wires are 8mm if I'm not mistaken, and the MSD's are 8.5mm, not much of a jump there...
Same with the coil, I wouldn't bother unless the original dies or splits open and starts arching...
And if either of those were to ever give out, I would still just replace them with AC Delco stuff.



