Knowledge is power. We learn from those before us here ( that and 55 years of trial by fire in my case) and now we pay it forward.

George

 

Hook up that spark tester when it runs great and get used to what the spark looks like when it’s strong with a good cadence.

George

 

can a bad ignition switch cause these issues? Happens more often and quicker when it's hot out and under load. It stalled on me a few times on my way back from work. I had to sit and wait a few minutes before it would start back up. When I put the key in the ignition, and turned it to the on position, it would not do it's few dings during diagnostics. I finally got back home. Let it sit for an hour, and it started dinging again.

 

Running like crap when hot does not sound like an ignition switch. Improper operation at key on could be. Do you have a heavy key ring?

George

 

Not really, just a light key chain my daughter got me for father's day and the aftermarket dei fob.

I've replaced the ignition switch in the past because the remote locks and remote start was vampire clipped into the switch harness almost a decade ago.

It may be related but i doubt it, but, no matter what setting i put my wiper blades on, it is either full speed or nothing. Left blinker after start up blinks fast, but both bulbs are functioning on that side. Right side is normal. After a bit, the left blinker functions at normal speed.

 

I clipped the system back into the ignition switch back then too. It was having issues shifting out of 2nd gear. Replaced the ignition switch and everything was fine... like I said though, almost a decade ago. It has also sat afterwards twice. Once for a year and again for two years 2 years later...

The only other issue I'm having is when i put it into 4x4, it will clunk off and on and do a little jump. Vacuum lines and diaphragm have been replaced. Lights work on the selection buttons. So I don't think it's related if my issue in 2wd is electrical that is.

 

I will try driving it tomorrow with the key ring off of the key and see if maybe movement from the chain is causing issues. I doubt it's the case, but I accept the possibility. I've replaced ignition lock cylinders in the past because of a heavy key ring for my grandfather. He had a lot of weight just in keys on his key ring lol.

 

Well on the way to work this afternoon, it ran fine. 6.5 hours later I get back in to go home. My fuel light was on even though when I parked it, it had 1/4 tank. It stalled on my way home, started it back up and my gas miraculously reappeared. Stalled 5 more times before I got home. Now I finally have an ses light on. So I'm going to borrow the scanner again, and see what she says. I feel oddly relieved, because now I may have direction to which route to take. Also, no chain on the key at all today.

 

Well I managed to get it to to oreily slowly. P0300, with other information leading to the fuel pressure regulator. Going to be replacing it tonight or tomorrow and see how it goes.

 

Upon removing the upper intake, I had a better look at my plug wires at the distributor cap. One of the boots has been torn up by rodents, and another looks slightly melted from being against a heater core hose. Luckily, they are under warranty. I don't like the engineer that made this set up. But I guess if I didn't have to tear the manifold off, I wouldn't have noticed the plug wires being bad.