Sorry, sooooo was that a yes or a no to my question you quoted from post #97? The picture I attached to that post #97 was a previous post by you stating that there was a trick you used with the gas pedal to reset the EVAP monitor before. I simply asked if you had tried it again...

 

No I think your mistaking that thing with the gas pedal is with Chrysler and it is to check for codes.And it don't work with Chevrolet Blazers as far as I know.

 

Okay, I will just leave you in the good hands of the forum...

I seem to be experiencing dejavu

Good luck Sir!

 

Do you really think that the factory shop manuals are designed to work with anything other than the Tech 2 (which I don't have)? Good luck to you. I tried, but again you wasted my time.

 

Ok Les sorry maybe got of to a bad start thought you were mocking me not trying to help and isn't the tech 2 the $2,000.00 or so scan or code reader the gm tech,s use in there diagnostic,s because I am never going to own one of them not just to use on my own car.And the service manuals are a way for me to understand a little more of the system how it works and why it's not.And I am sure there is methods of testing the system without one of those so hopefully the service manuals will be of some help to me in my diagnosis issues so far I believe maybe there is a leak so small that the OBDII isn't able to recognize it and I don't know if that's possible but I ordered a nice smoker for the system to see if I can find a leak and from there I will just test everything left that I haven't tested already and go from there.But thank you for your help with the drive cycle for Cadillac but like I said looks a bit to complicated for me and my Actron code reader isn't going to be of any help in checking for monitors yes ready other then the drive cycle mode that shows each monitor not complete by flashing it until it passes and they all have except the evap IM. Now going on three months and even though they may pass you for your tabs at emissions with one monitor not run ready but with no hard codes.I would like to see mine ready in every way if at all possible.That's just the way I am I want to leave this world a better place when I am gone not worse because of me.

 

Nope, not mocking you. I was hoping that the additional info in the Cadillac drive cycle could help illustrate that multiple sequential attempts may be necessary. It's not that the Cadillac drive cycle is necessarily 100% right for your vehicle, but they seem to give more info about what to do if a test does not complete. Indeed they mentioned up to 6 tries of steps 12-18 to get the Evap to complete (this would be without any other code clearing/testing/etc - and each time from a cold start). Also that there should be a min temp for the test to start (not just temps equal to each other). I was hoping that you might realize that testing this/that and setting/clearing this/that code might interupt a sequence that might otherwise have been successful. This is why I mentioned about patience. One thing I am not sure of is if you still have any pending codes at any time. Any pending code would be a red flag. IMHO you need to stop setting/clearing codes in order to give the test time to run multiple times without interruption.

As an aside, the advantage of the tech 2 is that you can command things like the purge valve on/off and probably display most things the PCM is reading. Also there may be canned tests that only the tech 2 can access. Factory diagnostic charts may refer to things that only the tech 2 can do, so you need to be prepared for that. Usually you can develop your own test to accomplish functionally the same thing - but you have to thoroughly understand how the system works and a decent amount of electronics. Operation is typically in the factory shop manuals, but you may have to dig a bit to find it. I do not have access to a tech 2 either. Recently I had to take my 2006 Pontiac G6 to the dealer to program new key fobs using a tech2 - just wasn't any other way on my particular car.

Good luck and best wishes.

 

I am sorry for that but it would be a shame to spend $400.00 on a set of manuals I won't be able to work with also I don't think Rusty Nuts or Captain Hook would have done that to me they suggested them to help me understand more of my vehicle so I can work on it myself with out help from expensive and lie to you shops.So again sorry if I offended you it wasn't my intention I just want to repair my car myself with a little help from those of you with years of knowledge and time to help those in need of it.Again Les sorry if I offended you I hope we can work together in the years to come because I can tell you know your mechanic's and also poses information that would take me years to acquire on my own if ever.

 

The factory manuals are the only worthwhile references. Just don't expect to be able to do all the diagnostics in the charts as written without a tech 2. If you want a taste of the factory manuals you can view a good share of the diagnostic information through a subscription to AlldataDIY for under $30. Some things missing but a lot of the factory manual information is there. It's a huge amount of info.

 

Thanks again Les and I can only hope to one day own a tech 2 but for now I will be staying with the Actron 9680 by the way it has some good features that most $400.00 dollar scanners don't it can command the purge on and I have accidentally did at a stop light and I now know you must be cruising when activating it or it stumbles the engine,but I am not sure if that part of it is of any help to me it only turns on the purge but I don't know if it does anything after turning on the purge like having the OBDII go through the rest of the steps so I could get a code if there was a problem .By the way since the code for the MAF that turned out to be the fuse that cost me 150.00 ENG1 from the dealer. It has real time data so you can see I think it's 329 is it PID,s.There is a considerable bit of information that if I understood it all may be quite helpful like engine temp rpm,s open or closed loop fuel trim the MAF censor and plenty more and that is how I new something was wrong when the MAF wasn't registering.Buy the way could there be a small enough leak in the evap hoses that the OBDII couldn't notice it .Is that a possibility or would the OBDII catch even the smallest leak the reason I ask is I bought a nice smoker on EBay to try to find anything that is failing unless I just need to be patient and continue trying to get it rite.

 

You know since I have failed the drive cycle so many times I have been thinking of different ways to get it completed.Or how in the H do the gm tech,s get it done from the dealership to the freeway for the 55 mph part of it.The GM cycle states start after setting all night for 2 1/2 minutes everything on step two were I think I fail it every time accelerate to 55 mph for three minutes coast to 20 mph first off I have to drive to the freeway that mean,s use the brake at least 5-7 times before getting to the freeway.What if after warm up part you use the e brake to stop from home till the test is complete. That's the only part that I can figure out to be failing the test because I follow it to a t except for touching the brake from home to the freeway.Also while on the freeway it don't say if you can use the e brake four way flashers and blinkers to make the test safe for me and other drivers.After getting to the freeway without touching the brake then do the 3 minute 55 mph hit four ways use e brake to get to 20 mph then use the shoulder turn off the four way,s accelerate to 55 mph again using blinkers to be safe when changing lanes but not with touching the brake just the e brake then 55 mph for 5 minutes then hit four ways use e brake to slow to 20 mph use shoulder to coast till accelerating again now this is the first time i have tried it this way and from warm up i haven't tried the e brake thing to the freeway part of it.Well lets see if I have better luck this way because the alternative is how i have failed more then 30 times not knowing why.What do you think Les, am I over thinking this because as I have said the last 30 tries were start at home drive normally to the freeway then follow the rest of the test only without four way,s blinkers or the e brake.And without the mil on or set codes this is the only thing I have come up besides sleeping in a rest area until the engine is cold and that takes three or four hours to accomplish so I guess we will see if this method changes anything.