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Fixing Oil Leak....Hopefully that is....

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  #31  
Old 04-13-2020, 10:39 PM
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My engine was actually a reman long block. Most of my engine building experience, though, is with old-school Chevys that don't have that newfangled stuff, lol.
 
  #32  
Old 04-14-2020, 04:13 AM
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Made me smile. Good you got that out of the way. I'd say with the front axle out after cleaning it all up and bolting up nicely lubricated at least no more worries about the front.

Whenever (at the garage I sometimes work) we have to work on cluttered engines we weigh working in the engine bay vs. removing the engine. Guess who wins most of the time? Removing the engine altogether. Despite the about 3 - 5 hours of hassle by getting it out clean it's usually worth the time because afterwards it is just soo much easier to work on.

In addition it's also so much easier to fix all the stuff around, like new battery cable, new hoses, radiator flushing, replacing steering links, working on rust.

Good to see you have that out now. Good luck.
 
  #33  
Old 04-16-2020, 08:48 AM
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I spent a good 3 hrs plus the wife helping...on cleaning the exterior of the oil pan; years of oil and dirt on there. Did not get it sparkling clean, not even close....about 90% clean. Tried some WalMart engine degreaser I had....that stuff is just worthless. Then went to SimpleGreen...which works, but the odor bothers me, so took my trusty wire wheel/drill to it. Geeze!!

I did go-ahead and install the new timing chain tensioner. Sure took-up all the slack in the timing chain; no idea how long it will last....but it is in there now. However I went to put the new timing cover on and discovered (of course) that it was not an updated one, had the two alignment pins molded-in, which will not work with the tensioner; held-in with two metal dowels. So I spent some time drilling-out these pins...got it close and the cover goes on with a couple of hammer taps. Not acceptable though, as I do not want the cover under stress so that it pulls away from the block and leaks....so I wasted $16, ordered an updated cover with removable pins...for twice the cost!

Was a short day of Blazer work. Next-up is to see if I can get that heat shield onto the left poly mount and possibly get the right side mount replaced. Lots of visibility/access with the oil pan / front diff out. Thinking of making a "U" out of wood that clears the crank so I can raise the engine to get the mount out/in. Will see.....

Oh and Tom A....I did re-install that reluctor wheel...

And I will say again....it would have been better, easier, quicker to pull the engine out.....in case anyone following this is thinking about doing this.

Later
 
  #34  
Old 04-16-2020, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by LannyL81 View Post
Oh and Tom A....I did re-install that reluctor wheel...
If my admission of stupidity saves just one person, it's worth it.
 
  #35  
Old 04-16-2020, 09:19 AM
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Any chance you could just use a rat-tail file on the motor mount to oblong the mounting hole?

When I did my motor mounts last summer I went with JTR’s and had good luck with them.
 
  #36  
Old 04-16-2020, 06:48 PM
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Billy1820: you missed the posting where I wrote that I got the frame portion to fit. All is good now...well...except I still need to get the heat shield on the left mount and replace the right mount.

Tom A: I took another shot at getting the heat shield to fit over the poly mount and after a couple of bends it will fit fine. Just need to lift the engine to do so.

Did not try-out the wood "U" I made....tomorrow.

I spent some time on the front diff getting the axle seals out; WOW!...the left side was in there. I actually took the seal "bracket" off as I did not want to risk any damage to the bearing. I had to BEAT! on that seal to get it out. I was afraid I was going to bend the "bracket", but did not. The right side is in the tube, so I took the tube off the case. No way to drive it out from the inside, so I used my trusty crowbar and levered it out. Actually came out a lot easier than the left side.
I did this as I wanted to check the condition of that sliding collar that locks in the right side wheel. All looks good. Now I need to find a sealant to use to re-seal the plate and mounting bolts. Whatever was used is quite hard, not flexible at all, almost like an epoxy. Will have to search around and see what others have used.

Later,
 

Last edited by LannyL81; 04-16-2020 at 06:59 PM.
  #37  
Old 04-17-2020, 06:55 PM
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4/17/2020:
Pretty good day, time for some pictures....

Oil pan with the oil splash removed and new gasket in place.


NOTICE.....two red poly engine mounts installed and with heat shield....ta-da!!



Picture of the timing chain tensioner. Shows the two large pins that hold the tensioner in place...which the updated timing cover is supposed to allow for....will see...bet I still have to either mod the cover or these pins.


The front diff right side tube off, shows the sliding collar and fork. Just going to clean-off all the oil/grim, replace the inner seals, then re-assemble.

Waiting for FedEx delivery with parts.
 

Last edited by LannyL81; 04-18-2020 at 09:14 AM.
  #38  
Old 04-17-2020, 08:33 PM
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One other item to note....seems my language...or rather my choice of words has changed since beginning this task.............................................. .............................
 
  #39  
Old 04-18-2020, 07:56 AM
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I think that's a blazer thing lol.... good work so far, looks good.
 
  #40  
Old 04-18-2020, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by LannyL81 View Post
One other item to note....seems my language...or rather my choice of words has changed since beginning this task.............................................. .............................
Probably not as bad as your wife's language when she sees all your parts on her nice tablecloth.
 


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