I just reply, "I thought this was a drop cloth!!"

 

FedEx arrived Sat afternoon with parts from RockAuto; new timing cover and plug wires. Open the timing cover and find that it is exactly the same as the one I already have; does not have the removable roll pins (removed when chain tensioner is present). I mean it is the same exact Pioneer cover....for twice the price! So that is going back for a refund as it is not as pictured.
So I worked on the timing cover I have, got the two tensioner pins to fit, installed cover.
Then installed the harmonic balancer using my homemade installer.....length of all-thread, three nuts, one very thick washer.....oiled up the balancer and seal....went right on, no problems.
Installed the crank pulley.
Opened-up the new Gates coolant pump, cleaned the connections on the pump and block, applied RTV to both sides of the gaskets and installed coolant pump.

Now I am at a bit of a stand-still, waiting for a set of E-Torx sockets to arrive so I can remove the two studs that hold the oil pan gasket around the rear main cap.
I did spend some time cleaning the front diff. Need to get some sealant yet and waiting for the two inner seals to arrive. Also have to get a length of hose so I can re-fill the diff once it is back in....that is several days away yet.

Once I get the oil pan and then the starter installed I think I will do a compression check on all cylinders....be good info to have.

Later,

 

LannyL, that is why I want a two wheel drive rather than a 4 wheel drive. I ran into a problem with changing the ATF on my 4WD. I could not drop the ATF pan ! I had to jack up the trans after I removed the trans mount bolts. A simple job becomes complicated. Here in SC, I really don't need 4WD. It seldom snows. I feel for what you are having to go through on your 4WD Blazer.

 

jims: I have had a 4wd Blazer since '98, here in Tucson....have never "needed" 4wd. Have said that when I purchased this '02 Blazer to replace the '95, I should have got a 2wd. Everything up-front is easier to get to....and gets a bit better fuel mileage as it lighter and not turning a front diff.
Now that I am no longer working, I hope to do some exploring of Arizona's trails where 4wd is needed. In fact I still have a posi-trac diff to swap out the rear open-diff so I have three-wheel drive instead of two. Been holding-off on doing this job as not real sure how to get the pre-load correct.

Anyways: when I did a trans fluid change on the '95, I too could not drop the pan straight down. Had to angle it and of course trans fluid poured-out. What a huge mess I had. I never changed trans fluid on the '95 again. The '02 was much better, not perfect, only spilled a small amount. I installed one of those drain plugs in the pan. Has not leaked a drop like I thought it would. Been over two years now. Much cheaper than buying a new pan, which I thought I would be doing.

Oh well.....back to having fun working on the Blazer..................

 

Finally got the correct size E-torx socket so to remove the two studs at the rear of the block, got the remains of the oil pan gasket out. (It was RTV'ed in place around the studs).
Got the areas cleaned-off of old RTV. Have to make a hardware store run to get two oil pan bolts as the two front ones were missing either before or shortly after I purchased the Blazer in 2007.
And these bolts are not metric; actually finding about 1/3 of the bolts are SAE....I thought by 2002 all bolts would have been metric, but nope, got to look at the bolt head to know which tool to get.

 

A little bit earlier you said something about not needing to take the differential completely out to get the pan out? My truck has a torn pan gasket on the front it seems and i want to give the inside a good looking at anyways and i lack the tools needed to get 21 year old axlenuts out.

 

LOL - as always it comes down to experience. (Been there tried that...)
You may get the oil pan out with the axle in - but...

...depending on space and availability of a crane it's easier at that point to simply pull the engine.
At that time you can address all other issues at the same time. In the end it may save you time.

At the place where I am restoring my project car we had an Alfa Romeo 75 with the V6. Exhaust needs a muffler changed. No way you get that Y-pipe out without lifting the engine by 3 inches. The mechanic tried - no luck. Monday he will hang the engine on the crane, remove the mounting block bolts and it will be a 15 minute job.

I've been very tempted by a dry sump installation on my 94 engine build - but hey - too expensive and too much hassle of an R&D.

 

Mods: I removed the diff as I could not see that it was the two steel transmission lines going to the radiator keeping the oil pan from dropping. So probably the oil pan will come-out without removing the diff. Probably just remove the diff's four mounting bolts and let it come down; best to support the diff with a jack stand or something, otherwise the weight is on the CV axles laying on the lower control arms.

Getting the front axle nuts off requires either an impact wrench (air or electric) or a long breaker bar....like 3'. Have to remove the wheel's center cap then with Blazer sitting on ground, use a short extension, 36mm socket, and breaker bar + pipe to get enough leverage to break the nut loose. I also clean the threads off first, then spray some oil on them prior to removing.

BUT...I will say again....I think it would be easier/quicker to pull the engine out than to go the route I have.

 

Had a short but productive day;
Got the oil pan, oil filter adapter, remote oil filter lines, and starter all installed. Was even able to get the starter between the oil pan and frame this time without having to lift the engine! And I was able to get to the starter terminals with the starter installed. So unlike when removing when nothing was coming off easy.

Also got the compression tester adapter screwed into cylinder #2.

Going to wait until tomorrow before I put oil in, give the RTV plenty of time to cure. Then have to put the battery in, remove the fuel pump fuse, block open the throttle body and begin the compression check. Going to be on a cold engine which is ok as I am just comparing cylinder to cylinder numbers.

Later,

 

Good to know, although how did you get it off with the oil pump pickup in the way? im not sure how far down into the pan it extends.