I just got a '95 4-door 4X4 Blazer. it's an LS model, but a well equipped one. It has a few issues, though:

1) The transmission selector lever is loose at the steering column. How much of a pain is it going to be to fix this?

2) The rear window wiper doesn't move, but it does make a grinding noise when turned on. Bad motor? What'll it take to replace?

3) The A/C is dead. The compressor clutch isn't cycling. I'm bracing myself to pop for a new compressor. Is this an R-134A system, or will it need conversion?

4) The RPO codes say it came with keyless entry. Of course, I don't have the fob. Can it be replaced?

There are other irritants, like the wandering gas gauge and the door rattles, but I can handle fixing those, I think. It's had lots of front end work done, but I think it might need a bit more: there's a significant dead spot in the center of the steering wheel range.

Still, it's a much better road vehicle than the '89 Bronco II it'll replace, and since that's what I do most, it'll make a big difference to me.

 

1. not sure maby something to do with the linkage?
2. I would assume your motor is bad or something in the wiring is bad.
3. It's a 134A system
4. You would have to call the dealer about that one would cost a chunk but they can probably replace it.

 

I'm not an a/c expert by any strech of the imagination, but I'll throw this out there.
My 95 had an issue with the a/c pump not turning on, turned out it was about a $10 part. I think it's called the dryer (the canister looking thing just before the firewall) there is a switch that looks like the old brake light switches with 2 wires. It's job is to not let the clutch engage if the system is too low. Unplug it and put a jumper across the 2 terminals in the plug. If the compressor kicks on then either the switch is bad or you are deathly low on freon.

To change it just un-screw it (nothing will leak out ) there is anothet "valve" that it screws into like a tire valve stem. If you know the system is charged up that could be the problem.

Sorry for sounding like a dork, but it worked for me!

Good luck.

 

if it's at the steering column there is a bolt in the steering column that is a pain to get to but can be tightened to shure things up, I let the dealer do mine in my big van i had cost me $65.00 and they had it done in an hour. could also be just loose linkage like the other fella said too though.

the rear wiper issue sounds like if you are hearing a grinding the motor is still working but the gear that actually drives the wiper may be stripped and needing replaced. may just be cheaper to buy a new wiper motor than the gear by it's self though, you might come out lucky and just be able to buy the arm that connects to the motor in the rear hatch and have it working again that way.

the AC is in fact a 134 system so no conversion is needed on that one. the compressor may be able to be rebuilt if you know anyone that can do that locally, if not you can get a decent deal on them from advance but they do charge a core on that one.

the key fob can be replaced but you have to get them from the dealer, you can also buy them off of ebay and supposedly reprogram them to match your vehicle but i am not so sure how that works, I would just go to the dealer with your vin number and have them order you another one. that's what i am going to do with my daughters 97

the steering issue can be corrected with an alignment, worse case scenario you may have to replace a tie rod end or ball joint, some times you get lucky and are able to just juice up the grease fittings and solve the problem that way but if it's leaking then you'll have to replace the joint still.
hope some of this helps. I am buying up these things right and left for my 5 children. so far i have 2 of them an 88 and now a 97 i am replacing the motor in. good luck with it and let us all know how things go for you.

 

Well, the keyfobs are at least available cheap off eBay, and for the 95, at least, programming is supposed to be simple.

 

If the A/C isn't cycling, It could just be low on R134. The compressor shuts down if the refrigerant gets to low. I would diagnose this first before replacing the compressor.

I purchased the key fobs off of ebay and followed their directions for programming and it was very easy and less expensive than the dealer.

If you use the search feature of this forum, you'll find the loose steering is often caused by a oil soaked "rag joint". I've never had that issue but I've read about it often in this forum.