I am new here and also new to Chevy Blazer running gear. Last week I got a good deal on a 2001 Blazer with a 3.4 engine. I noticed there was some noise coming from the right side front wheel area. I suspect it is the CV joints on the axle. My question is; what should I expect to pay to get both front CV axles replaced. I noticed that they are sold in pairs, and don't cost a lot. Normally I would attempt to do this job myself, but being new to this type of system, I plan on having it done in a shop. Any help or comments on this will be appreciated.
Thanks
Mel

 

As far as the noise, don't rule out a bad hub bearing either. You can buy CV axle assemblies individually so perhaps you are thinking of something else? *If you do end up replacing the CV shafts, I would replace the seals in the front diff too while you're in there.


Either job isn't bad really with a entry level set of tools. You'll need a puller and 35mm socket for the hub nut. There's plenty of YouTube videos out there to get you started..

 

Thanks, I have watched a couple of those YouTube videos, but the ones I watched were done by amateurs who did not appear to know what end of the wrench to use. I don't hold much faith in them. I think there is some play in the CV joints, but don't know what is acceptable. I don't have any idea how long of a job the replacement is.
I don't think I have all the tools I would need for the job, so I think I'll let the experts do the job
Thanks for you reply
Mel

 

As for the amount of play allowed in a front hub, it is pretty minimal, almost imperceptible by touch I would guess. When my hubs went, one at a time, the play was very noticeable. I could rock them back to front with about 1/2 to 1 millimeter of play at the outer hub diameter.

As for tools you would need, here is what I remember using: a floor jack, jack stands, a full set of sockets and wrenches, a torque wrench, a set of pliers, a big socket for the hub nut and a breaker bar.

When did my second hub, I managed to break the breaker bar (I was using a cheater bar on it) and was just barely able to get it off with an impact wrench. (I use my air tools at most 1 time per year.) The other one came off with the breaker bar. I have no idea why the difference. However, if you don't have an air compressor and impact wrench and sockets, I'm sure you could rent the tools if you were to get stuck, or you might have a local shop crack them loose for you before you dig into the rest of the job.

It really is a pretty straight forward job to do. But do get a manual to help you.

 

Thanks for the good advice. My problem is not all the tools, I think I have all the tools you mentioned except the big metric socket, It's me poor old feet and knees. If I had known I would live this long, I sure would taken better care of myself.
Mel

 

Yeah, sometimes we take better care of our vehicles than our bodies!

 

Although, the diagnosis, you can probably still do yourself.

 

In my experience with the CV joints, when they wear out they make a kind of clicking noise, especially when turning tightly or when the 4x4 is engaged. Diagnosing the CV based on play is difficult, unless you're talking about moving the CV axle vertically or horizontally, not rotation. If you can grab the CV shaft and move it up/down then there may be an issue.


The hub bearings are much more likely to wear out, and tend to make more of a growling/grinding noise that will get louder or more quiet when you're turning a corner, depending on which side is shot. There should not be any play in a good hub bearing. If you put the truck on a stand so that the front tire is just high enough to put a crowbar under it, then lift with the bar. If the tire can move vertically before lifting the suspension, or if you can grab either side of the tire and there is play in the tire then the hub is shot. Most cheaper brand hubs will wear out in only a year or two, so if you replace them do not go cheap. A good brand like Moog is recommended.

 

I am in agreement with El_Beautor. If the CV axle is bad it will almost always click. This usually occurs when the axle boot is torn and it slings out all of the grease. If the boots are in good shape and it isn't clicking I would put my money on the wheel bearing. I replaced both of mine at different intervals and it isn't all that difficult. I think I did the second one in about 45 minutes. However, if you are taking to a shop they should be able to troubleshoot it for you. Most shops won't just change parts for you. Best of luck.

 

Thanks for the great diagnosis and comments. The more I read I believe the problem is a bad hub.
You people are a great bunch.
Thanks
Mel