Thanks again for the help with my son's 1998 GMC Jimmy with the fuel pump!

Now it needs a front hub bearing assembly. Whee. Not a huge deal (I think...) as I've changed them before on my old XJ Jeep & that wasn't too big of a deal. Have all the tools & if global warming holds out I won't have to freeze my cajones off doing this!

Just to avoid surprises & since we live in the boonies I wanted to ask a few questions about this job on a Jimmy. Searching answered most of them but still want to run a few things by ya'll:

Questions are:

• This is held on by three bolts from back of assembly, right?
• If I read correctly; it takes a 36mm socket on the axle nut? (Which I have! Along with a 3/4" drive 3' long torque wrench - God Bless Harbor Freight!)
• What do I retorque the axle nut to? I found two different foot/# specs while searching here!
• Any issues with the ABS plugs not matching up? (I'm assuming Moog, Timken & even Bob's Discount Bearings all have it together... I just don't want to find out I needed to order abs adapter harness #54902 which will immediately be a backordered item).
• Any surprises or things to look out for not covered in the hated Haynes manual?
• I'll cover the obvious and change his brake pads, etc (if needed).

I wouldn't even bother asking but as mentioned - we're miles from town so would like to make sure we have everything on hand when doing this.

Also - he can't afford the top dollar hub assemblies especially those from local parts stores! Not as bad as fuel pumps but, geez!

Any recommendations on 'off-brand' assemblies? Found these on Amazon & based on their ratings & number of purchases they seem 'ok': Prime Choice Auto Parts HB613126 Front Hub Bearing Assembly. (Yeah, we'd rather go with name brand but tuition is due.) Guess I'm just curious if anyone has experience with that brand - or another of the 'off-brand' assemblies?

Thanks!

1998 GMC Jimmy SLE
4.3L, Automatic, 4wd

 

First off, lose the Haynes manual. It is filled with incorrect information, and specs. All is not lost though, it does make a good liner for a bird cage.


3 bolts on the inboard side of the steering knuckle, torque is 77 foot pounds.
Axle nut is 35mm, but a 36mm socket will work just fine.
Axle nut torque, (unloaded) is 103 foot pounds, (to be torqued with the wheel off the ground). Stick a screwdriver into a rotor vane while the caliper is installed. This will prohibit the rotor from turning while you are removing and torqueing the nut.
The new hub assembly should come with the ABS sensor & connector installed.
Off brand "economy" hub assemblies need to have a good warranty as they will not last nearly as long as "name brand" hubs. So be prepared to replace it more often

 

No surprises here, quicker than doing brake lining on 1 wheel. 30 to 40 minutes from the tire leaving the ground to touchdown. All metric, 13, 14 & 16 if memory serves, the ABS line bolts are the biggest hassle 3 10mm.

Usually pretty rusted, nothing a few swear words and a can of beer won't get you past.

 

Thanks guys! Yeah, I thought it was a 13mm for the three hub bolts, but we all know how engineers like to change things for no logical reason... other than some damned calculator said to make every vehicle different, just cause..., well just because...

Ok , I'll snag a 35mm socket to match my 36mm socket. Better to have it than wish I did.

Yup - 200000000% agreed on quality of Haynes/Chiltons vs a factory service manual. I push those for Jeep owners on my website so we are in total agreement there... having said that, I haven't finagled my way into the GM innerwebs to find those .pdf downloads as I have for Jeeps. (I also know that posting links to same is verbotten so I won't ask!) .

Hey ShadowZone - thanks! More helpful than some would recognize! That time to completion is a big help. My son has darn near zero funds & tuition is due so, as I told him, a few hours doing this is MUCH cheaper than the $300 quoted from (a very reputable) local garage. (And a 1.5L box of wine with an iv drip hose fits right onto the floor jack handle when it's fully upright... )

Captain Hook - and thanks to you! Yup - I'm a big proponent of FSM's & keep one for my Jeep here... and the Haynes gets to ride along as an 'emergency' reference on the road. (Or toilet paper - depending on which emergency hits first! ) Haynes is ok for general crap but the in depth work requires a FSM.

Ok - so basically, there isn't anything super-stupid to discover in mid job? I really appreciate the feedback, guys. We're on a tighter budget than I'd like so getting input from experienced hands is a huge help. Thanks!

 

30 ta 40 min sounds good but as with every thing in life don't count on it - if the axle slides out of the hub your fine but if it don't it can be a time consuming pain in the rear end I think my press is a 10 ton - i'd have to go look but it took press and a lot of heat to slide it out [ and yes I had the three hub bolts removed before pressing on the axle shaft ] My advice is when reinstalling the hub clean the splines well and use anti seize upon reinstalling the axle

 

No 10 ton press here out in the woods... so it'll be a map gas torch & a hand sledge hammer!

Yep - Jeep hubs I've pulled got the emory cloth treatment on the 'seat' followed by some axle grease on the hub itself prior to reassembly in hopes they wouldn't seize together as the old ones do.

 

Before taking out the,three inboard bolts use a brass hammer or a block of wood and a 2lb or,sledge and give the shafts a,whack to break it free. Should be easy

 

I agree 100% - worked well on the riders side drivers side not so well - lol

 

I would suggest getting a new axle nut while you are doing it. It is just cheap insurance. Also, you can get a good deal at Advance Auto if you know how to use coupon codes. You could probably get a good bit off of a new hub/bearing assembly. I just checked and there is a promo code that allows you to get $40.80 off of a MOOG hub making it less than the cheap driveworks brand. This all assuming that it is 4x4.

 

Yup, it's a 4wd. Hub & socket arrived yesterday. If I tear up the nut I'll have son swing by AutoZone for one on way home from work.

Hub isn't 'driveworks' but another generic brand - about $45 including shipping from Amazon.