Thanks a lot Outsydr.

swartlkk - Do you have time to answer my questions from my previous post?

Also, I assume that there is no way that the fuel filter could have got clogged again over a couple days is there? Just recalling that my truck ran fine for a day or so after the filter was replaced.

Do I need to replace the injector too or can I get by with just the regulator and nut kit?

I assume the reason to replace the nut kit is that the lines are known to go bad easily? Seems like they don't need to be messed w/ to R/R the FPR.

I sure wish I could read my codes....

EDIT
I just called a local repair shop and he said to try popping off the filter and see if I can blow through since I may have a bunch of crap in the tank. He also thought that unless I am smelling a bunch of gas, even in the cab, that it isn't the FPR.

What do you guys think about that?

Of course I shouldn't have the pressure drop either.....

When I get home I will try attaching the pressure gauge to the line from the pump (hopefully it adapts, it did come with some sort of adapter) and see if the check valve holds pressure.

Anyone able to answer my other questions?

 

I really wish people would just calm the heck down and WAIT FOR ANSWERS. No one here gets paid to wait on your beck and call. So do not push. Also, a little bit of searching around this site would answer a lot of your questions. You are not the first person to have gone through this problem here.

You have already proved that you have a leak in the fuel system, correct? You have also determined that you have proper fuel pressure (+52psi at all times) as you can read about in MANY other threads. You did not say whether the pressure is maintained above this threshold while you are experiencing this problem (rough idle, hesitation, misfire). To check this, you will need to either remove the hood and drive it around or somehow get the pressure gauge where you can see it while you drive.

DO NOT blow through a filter with compressed air and hope that you can reuse it unless you know what you are doing. Compressed air can tear the filter material, rendering the filter ineffective. A much easier way to determine if the filter has been clogged is to remove the filter, output side first (what is towards the engine), then with a clear plastic pan under the filter, remove the tank side connection. Allow the filter to drain into the pan. If you see a lot of black buildup (fuel pump brushes) or other foreign material (tank dirty/debris), then you could try another filter. They are cheap enough.

As I have already stated, a leaking FPR allows unmetered fuel into the intake. More fuel will cause all kinds of problems, including hesitation, rough idle, and misfire while driving. As far as why it ran better with a new filter, who knows. It may have not leaked as bad that day for whatever reason.

About the nut kit, if the CPI spider moves during the repair procedure for the FPR, you have a possibility of a leak. I would not have mentioned it if it could not cause a potential problem. If you remove the spider, replace the nut kit, period. As far as an FPR repair, if you can do it without disturbing the spider body itself, it is your call on the nut kit. If you go with the updated FPR kit I talked about earlier (a much more robust design), then you will need to remove the CPI spider to drill out and grind down a section of the spider body to accept a nut/bolt.

If the truck was running fine, I would not consider swapping out the whole CPI spider. With regular fuel injector cleaner treatments (every oil change), the poppet nozzles should stay clean and work for a good long time. Replace it if you want to, but it should not be necessary.

Now, with all of that said, please, PLEASE do not push for answers. Even if it takes a day or two for someone to answer them. Everyone here volunteers their time and experience to help others. Being insistent or pressuring does not help your case.

 

Sorry man, didn't mean seem be pushy. I have a trip coming up very soon and I'm trying to decide between paying someone and doing it myself (and my wife is on my case...). Wasn't frantic or anything while typing but it seems apparent it came across that way. I have mucho respect for the big contributors on this forum, it takes a lot of work and saves thousands thousands....

I have spent about 5 hours researching this on this forum and others, so I have put in some time into it before asking questions after my first post.

Your technique about the filter sounds good. He didn't suggest to use compressed air, just to carefully blow through by mouth while at the same time not touching lips to it of course. If one can blow through it easily, it isn't clogged.

It stays around 54 psi while giving it steady 2000 or so revs and while it is "missing" but can't test it under load w/o taking off hood like you said.

I do not smell a strong gas smell. Should I? - from the cab or exhaust pipe?

Do you recommend a particular injector cleaner? I just put in a tank full of supreme w/ a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel additive.

Since I do not have a fuel pipe shut off-adapter I am going to connect the gauge to the fuel filter and see if the check valve holds tonight.

I have read THIS many times. If see no pressure loss at the pump, how do I do step 10 w/o the shut-off adapter? My GM Service Manual mentions squeezing the return line, but as far as I know it is all hard line on supply and return.

Thanks for your time.

EDIT btw - I have major air in my cooling system and plan on getting that out tonight by putting the front on jacks,etc. Is there a sensor that sees that and affects drivability?