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There is no specification for the pressure while running but the regulator should hold 60-65 psi when the pump is first energized and not leak down below 55 psi after 10 min. I have never seen anyone report 90 psi on the fuel rail while running, only at the fuel filter where the regulator is not involved. Almost every discussion that I have ever read talks about pressure being too low.
I understand. I am not near my shop manuals today but tomorrow I will see if there is a procedure for checking/clearing the return line back to the tank which is the other possibility. If I find this I will post here.
After a couple of days, I installed a new catalytic converter and new injection spider (including fuel pressure regulator)
I the engine runs even worst after installing a new (refurbished one) and the fuel pressure runs up to 90PSI constant now.
The engine struggles to start and if it is warm you have to start the engine with throttle half open. You have to hold the rpm with throttle. With a steady throttle position it takes 5-10sec than the engine revs up, seems it gets way to much fuel…
If I want to check for fuel return line blockage what’s the best way to check it?
I have never followed the return line back to the tank but it looks like there is a flexible section that may be a good point to disconnect to divide the problem in half. Not sure how accurate these are for your truck:
A clogged fuel return line it was!
now it’s running smooth and good.
At idle it sometimes spits a bit. Gave me a P0300, could be the crankshaft sensor it wasn’t the best, especially the wiring looked worn. I’ll check on this the next days but it runs and drives normal now! Thanks for your advise!
all I changed after the breakdown:
- Catalytic converter
- Injection spider
- fuel pressure regulator
- Spark plugs (except No: 3 - because it’s trapped behind the the steering column)
- distributer
- fuel pump
- map sensor
- coolant fluid temp sensor
thinking about:
- new crank shaft sensor
- new ignition wires
- Spark plugs (except No: 3 - because it’s trapped behind the the steering column)
Regards![/QUOTE]
There's a specific spark plug socket out there that allows you to change it without removing motor mounts, just the driver's side wheel and tire. Instead of the normal straight connection, it has a swivel built into it. I picked mine up at NAPA and it fit perfectly between the exhaust manifold and steering shaft. With a 3" extension attached to it, it was easy as could be.
I'm fighting a similar battle with my own 99 at the moment with slightly different but still fuel related problems. I can't help with your fuel issue, but at least I could help with your spark plug one.
