Ok so I did some work on a buddies 98 bravada. Its got the same set up as my 98 blazer. The intake gasket blew at the rear common prob on the 4.3. Still don't know why you have to remove the upper intake to replace lower gasket?? But thats off topic. The problem we are having is with the fuel pump. When we 1st got the motor all back together I didnt connect the connector at the distributer. So of course it wouldnt fire. Final relized that i missed it after crankin it for a moment. Got back in turn the key it fired right up ran for about 30 seconds then stalled out and would not restart. So i press the valve in the fuel line to see if there was any pressure and gas just kinda dibbled out. So i turned the key on with out starting it and the pump wasnt kickin on for the boost in psi the motor requires to start. So I thought maybe sense the distributer wasnt connected it may have kicked off the pump on a safety deal or sumin. We unhooked the battery let it set for the night went back the next day hooked her up and sure enough the pumped kicked on and it started right up ran perfect. Well its been about two weeks now and the bat died and when tring to jump start it relized once again the pump wasnt kickin on.

If any one has any ideas if possibly a wire in the main harnass could have gottin damaged when changing the gasket or just info on the fuel system itself would be helpful.Talked to local garageand the mech said "there shouldnt be that thepump was more than likly on its way out."Thing is pump has been replaced once already and its not bad on milage at all.Think the car itself only has about 120,000 if that can't really fathem 2 pumps per 60,000 miles unless replacement was just defective.Any info would be greatful did the work to save money not spend more....

 

you need to check when you key it on whether or not you have 12v at the tank. You can find this out without dropping the tank. This obviously will tell you whether or not a wire got damaged. A pump every 60k? Anythings possible-especially if the second was aftermarket.(even if it wasn't). Jerry[X(]

 

we jumped the relay would that put 12 to the pump

 

it would, that is if there isn't an issue with the wiring. I, myself, would STILL want to unplug the pump and see 12 v coming back when your assistant keys it on. I'm thinking a new ACDelco pump but...b-4 I go there I want 2b sure! There will be 4 wires in a plug on top of the tank you want to check. 2 are grounds, 1 is the gauge and the last is the 12 v feed to the pump. Jerry[X(]

 

Ok, now if there is 12v tothe pump but of course it is not kickin on is there anything else that could tell the pump not to. He has been on here lookin at some other post and there was one about the oil psi sensor or sumin that may be causing the pump to not turn on. which I believe would located at the back of the blcktothe left ofthe distributer where they areon older chevy motors just with out the sensor garage. left refering to driveside. the gauge read pressure when crankin it tho. cld that affect anything. also seein how you are on do you have any knowledge on the 4x4 side my blazer has an issue. i just copy paste the post im doin now to ya

 

do you know where the fuel prime connector is located. i guess you can put 12v to it and should turn on your pump

 

I have never seen a fuel pump prime connector on any of the 96+ trucks. Most diagrams will still show it, but I believe it is there because the same diagrams work for the 2.2L I4 S10s as well.

If you have jumpered the connection at the relay, you will be supplying +12V to the pump regardless of any other checks/balances that happen through the PCM. Barring a wiring problem as JP has already said, there would be +12V there. The only other part of the equation is having a ground to complete the circuit. You have to test at the pump to make sure that you have both power and ground.