I took my blazer to the mechanic to check where is the leaking. He looked at it and told me that fuel pump is bad and he also told me one of the lifters that pushes the piston is either loose or bad from the noise of the engine.

 

I made the shut off tool in post #19, including the gauge, for around $40. The valve and brass adapters are available at any good hardware or plumbing store. The rest of the parts are available at most auto parts stores. The tool will test regulated fuel pressure, maximum pump output, fuel injector balance, fuel pressure leakdown AND can determine if leakdown is in the tank or in the plenum, all in one simple tool. Or you can buy the complete set, (made by Kent-Moore) that includes 2 different 3/8" valve tools and 2 different 5/16" valve tools for around $400, but they don't include the gauge.


As for a vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator: The CMFI and CSFI systems do not have a vacuum line to the regulator. The entire regulator is exposed to manifold vacuum and doesn't need a vacuum line.

Better get the engine noise diagnosed first, along with an estimate to repair it. Then get an estimate for the fuel pump. Could get quite expensive.

 

He told me just the labor will cost me over $300 for replacing the lifts. who knows how many or what else is going bad in there. this blazer took all my money and return i havent got anything yet but im expecting at least over 200k miles on my engine. I guess instead of making monthly payment for a new car i would have to pay mechanic bill once in a while. for the fuel pump i was looking at the ebay and i saw couple of them for around $70 but i dont know what i else i have to replace besides fuel pump.

 

A very common cause for lifter noise is coolant in the oil. It just so happens that the 4.3L is known for faulty intake manifold gaskets that leak coolant into the oil. When coolant mixes with engine oil, the oil thins out and causes the lifters to rapidly bleed down and make noise. If in fact that's the problem, the intake manifold and rocker arm covers must be removed to replace the lifters, then new intake gaskets are installed. The only problem with all of this is that the lifters are replaced needlessly. If you change the engine oil, maybe a couple of times, to get all of the coolant out, the lifters might be just fine. You might want to get another opinion before you dump a ton of money into it. Have the oil checked for the presence of coolant. ....just a thought that might save you some money

Stay away from the el cheapo ebay fuel pumps... go with AC Delco or Delphi only.

 

this is what happened i did a tune up. changed wires, rotor, cap, spark plugs, clean the egr and maf sensor. when i was putting the wires back on i got distracted and i put the one wire wrong driver side. i didnt notice, i crank the engine. it puffed and died. i check everything again and make sure everything is tight but didnt notice the wire and tried again nothing. so later on i double check the wires and found out that one of them were wrong so i switched and plugged in to the right place and tried again. it worked but it started doing that. before the tune up i change the oil (firestone did it) but i didnt check the oil for presence of coolant but i know that when i turn my heater on it smells like coolant. Ill check the coolant level tomorrow but i did checked level of all my fluids when i did my tune up which was less than 3 weeks.thanks again

 

Today when i was going to school in the morning, i wanted to pass the car in front of me so i push the gas and my truck started accelerating but when i hit the 3000rpm it stopped accelerating and lost power. it happened couple more times but it didnt happen later on. I dont know if it is the fuel pump or my alternator.

 

If the alternator stops working, the red battery indicator on the dash will come on and probably not cause what you described. The lack of power could easily be caused by the fuel pump, (and we already know there's a problem with it). The symptom also sounds similar to what a restriction in the exhaust would do, (possibly a restricted catalytic converter). As far as the coolant odor, if you only smell it in the interior, the heater core could be leaking. If you smell it when you open the hood, it could be most anything, (including leaking intake manifold gaskets).

 

I dont have any smell when i open the hood but i had problem with my heating beginning of winter and i changed my thermostat and flush my heater core. And the red battery sign pops up when i loose the power.

 

Does the battery light come on before or after the engine stalls?

 

engine doesnt stall its still running but for a couple of second i lost the power and after that red thing came out but then it went away