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And the last thing that I initially did to the Blazer yesterday morning was I jacked it up in the front I took both wheels off I took the top slide pin out greased the channels on the brake pads compressed the calipers made sure everything was in operational order everything greased up and put the wheels back on and spun them and they were free and clear so and then I dropped it down took it for a run and they started dragging again but I'm going to try the cold check this morning on the drag and I guess go from there
All right as it sits jacked it up first spun the wheel it was dragging pretty pretty bad I got in the truck cranked it up pump the brakes turned it off it was dragging about the same of course I read number 10 like you said and I released the master cylinder about a quarter of an inch and it seems to have let go a little bit not all the way it's still drags just a slight bit but it's better than it was.
I pulled on the back side of the caliper to try to make the slide pins move and it loosened up a little but it still has a slight drag I can still hear it scraping on the rotor.
What the 1/4" MC experiment tells us is that there is a problem somewhere from the MC plunger back to the pedal and brake switch. The MC is not returning back to the proper resting position with pedal release. Here is a diagram with the possible causes:
The first thing to check is the new MC pushrod. Is it adjustable? Does it have the same length and style as the original. Then we go from there.
Sometimes when the brakes release they are not 100% loose with no noise. That said since you feel that there may still be some drag after the 1/4" MC release, did you also try to crack the caliper bleed screw to see if you got any more relief? That would tell us if there are more problems in the hydraulic circuit like the MC itself, lines, blocks, etc.
I cracked the bleed screw on the wheel still the same amount of slight drag I pulled the back end of the caliper towards the outside and of course fluid spurt out of the bleed screw but it still has a slight drag
I don't know what you mean about the push rod being adjustable so you want me to take the master cylinder back off completely and see if the push rod is adjustable? As far as being the same as the original I do not have the original with me right now but when I compare the two at installation they seem to be the same.
I cracked the bleed screw on the wheel still the same amount of slight drag I pulled the back end of the caliper towards the outside and of course fluid spurt out of the bleed screw but it still has a slight drag
It's possible that you have more than one problem. You definitely have a problem at the firewall but since you feel that this wheel is still dragging with the caliper bleed screw cracked you might have a sticking caliper piston. Did you rebuild the calipers or install remans?
Installed remans. Should I pull them both and take them back and get new ones
I don't know because I don't know your level of experience to determine if those pistons are sticking or not. Are the originals still available to remount one and compare? It will be easier to assess those calipers after you straighten out the hydraulic problem because now every time you pump the brakes the system stays pressurized. Address that first. After that is fixed, take the truck out apply the brakes a few times while driving and then take it out of gear and cost to a stop. If the last few feet are nice and loose and maybe you even roll back a little, the calipers are probably OK. If it grabs a little right at the end then you probably still have a problem.
I have to run out for a few hours so I dont have time for screening you tube videos but there are discussions about MC pushrod clearance like this one:
10-11-2021, 09:29 AM
