Double Check the length of those bolts and compare to specs.

Even though they're new, it doesn't mean they are right.

Double Check to make sure nothing fell into the bolt holes.
(like pieces of old gasket scrapings or even water won't let the bolt go all the way in)

I have never had a single problem with any Fel-Pro Products.

How sure are you about your Torque Wrench being Calibrated right?

Those bolts shouldn't break off that easy unless they are bottoming out/too long or cross threaded.

I’ve used a Reverse Drill Bit to get them out before, they work great as long as it’s not cross threaded.

Good Luck

 

I am using a Sears beam type torque wrench. I will check the bolts. Thx for the help.

 

I spoke with the machine shop where I had the heads resurfaced. He instructed me to use a 1/8" bit and drill a hole...then insert a 1/8" allen key. I cut off the "L" portion and used a hammer to drive it in the hole and I was able to back out the broken part without removing the head.

New bolts are in and torque down.

 

That's not right.

Follow this guide:
Install Cylinder Heads - Part 9: Rebuilding An Engine To Fix A Rod Knock - GMC or Chevy 4.3 V6

 

I agree, those specs are incorrect.

Torque procedure in the link that burned posted is absolutely correct, including the final pass degrees. It is the preferred method straight out of the GM shop manual.

The OP reported in Nm, which is why I responed in Nm, figured he is in Canada. 22 foot pounds and 80 Nm are the same.... guess I should have posted both

 

Make sure you clean out the bolt holes.. Clean out all the old oil you can see, spray it down real well with brake clean, and blow each hole out with compressed air..

If you don't do this, it can cause the same problem, and worse yet, incorrect torque yields. This can cause you to have to do the job over again, in a quick manor....