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Heat and mysterious leak issue

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  #11  
Old 12-09-2011, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MTopper
well i located the mysterious leak. my core is still in one piece, my oil pan gasket has a very small leak that has gotten a lot worse since yesterday. I crawled under there today and found where the leak is. it started dripping down bad and i could follow the drips back up behind the exhaust.

so saturday is fix day. i'm dropping the pan and replacing it along with doing my oil change. perfect timing haha. going to do some tests on my heat while in the shop too
Good news on the core, i did another one today there so much fun. Since your not smelling the sweet smell in the cab its probably the blend door, so its just not getting the heat to the vents, its vacuum activated, but i think you have to take the dash apart to get to that also.
 
  #12  
Old 12-12-2011, 08:28 PM
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well..... really bad news. according to alldata, it takes 13 hours to replace a $30 seal. Step 1, remove engine.

And, now my transmission is also leaking from the pan. so i have two leaks. Plus, with both blowing backwards on my crossmember, they are eating through the undercoating i sprayed on my whole frame this summer. Literally eating through it all down to bare metal. I can use my finger to scrape it all off with minimal pressure. I can't afford the repairs, I can't afford a new car, and I can't sell it with all these problems. So, i'm SOL.

If truck wasn't leaking, its worth $5000. repairs needed will cost $1400 from my shop to be fixed, with all leaks, probably worth about $2500 if i'm lucky. i owe my school $2100 for next semester and am at $1950 at the moment.

So... yeah. anyone have any helpful ideas?
 
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:36 PM
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You mean the oil pan seal? I havent looked but the motor may have to come out to take the pan off, maybe possible to get the pan loose and not all the way off, and put that make a gasket stuff on it? The trans pan you should be able to replace the gasket but its a messy job. My way of looking at it is you cant get a better car for what you can get for the current one just try and fix it, even if its not right away just top stuff off.
 
  #14  
Old 12-13-2011, 12:37 AM
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I see it as this, i don't want to take out any loans until next fall when i transfer schools. I can afford a loan but would rather not have to.

I'm looking into fixing the truck and selling it and using that money as a down payment on a new cruze. with 4 grand down, i can get a loan that is $230 a month for 5 years with my mom cosigning. I have no credit as of right now so her or my older brother cosigning are a must.


I want to thank you for your help man. i just am fed up with my truck after this past 9 months of money pit. I've spent over $2500 already fixing stuff and haven't been able to afford anything i want/need really. So, if the blazer goes away, i'll have a new cruze and buy another blazer down the road some day. 4x4 next time though
 
  #15  
Old 12-13-2011, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by MTopper
I see it as this, i don't want to take out any loans until next fall when i transfer schools. I can afford a loan but would rather not have to.

I'm looking into fixing the truck and selling it and using that money as a down payment on a new cruze. with 4 grand down, i can get a loan that is $230 a month for 5 years with my mom cosigning. I have no credit as of right now so her or my older brother cosigning are a must.


I want to thank you for your help man. i just am fed up with my truck after this past 9 months of money pit. I've spent over $2500 already fixing stuff and haven't been able to afford anything i want/need really. So, if the blazer goes away, i'll have a new cruze and buy another blazer down the road some day. 4x4 next time though
Yea i understand these blazers can be a pain i would have nothing to do with one either but its my wifes so have to keep it. Good luck with the plans yea 4x4 all the way ive got the same year as you 4x4 only 90k on it and its already got its problems.
 
  #16  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:02 AM
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rear main seal?

unbolt transmission bellhousing to motor, unbolt torque convertor (may require also removing starter), move trans back an inch or two (if 4x4 you might have to drop it), unbolt and remove oil pan, remove oil pump, unbolt rear main cap, loosen rest of main caps, pop rear seal out, put new one in. (just gotta lower the crank enough to be able to remove it). installation reverse of removal (make sure everything is torqued properly.

Trans pan gasket is EASY, i've done it twice on mine (in 3 months do'h) just very messy, if you wanna make it less messy for next time buy a new pan with a drain plug (fairly cheap)
 
  #17  
Old 12-13-2011, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike98Blazer
rear main seal?

unbolt transmission bellhousing to motor, unbolt torque convertor (may require also removing starter), move trans back an inch or two (if 4x4 you might have to drop it), unbolt and remove oil pan, remove oil pump, unbolt rear main cap, loosen rest of main caps, pop rear seal out, put new one in. (just gotta lower the crank enough to be able to remove it). installation reverse of removal (make sure everything is torqued properly.

Trans pan gasket is EASY, i've done it twice on mine (in 3 months do'h) just very messy, if you wanna make it less messy for next time buy a new pan with a drain plug (fairly cheap)
i wish it was the rear main seal. its the oil pan gasket.

the trans gasket is simple but, i don't have anywhere to do it properly and not spill fluids all over mom's driveway or anywhere. So, i'm paying to have it done. trans is only costing me $25 in labor but, the oil pan gasket is the problem. the first step is to remove the motor. there is no way to get it out without taking the engine out of the truck apparently.
 
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Old 12-14-2011, 06:30 AM
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Oh there's gotta be a way. What's in the way of it? Front crossmember? Front diff?

I've done them like this a few times. If you can get the clearance. unbolt both motor mounts and jack up the engine untill you cant anymore (ie. when the trans bellhousing hits the firewall) stick wood under the now unbolted motor mounts to hold it in place. then if needed drop the front diff. if it comes down to it unbolt the front crossmember (but i'm betting with the extra 1.5-2" of clearance you won't need to)

edit: Here's a how to i found by googling. It's for a 98 but i'm guessing it's identical. http://www.ehow.com/how_5314159_remo...er-engine.html
 
  #19  
Old 12-14-2011, 07:22 PM
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yeah. well, i fixed my trans pan today by replacing the seal and filter. then had my mechanic get his tiny hands back behind everything and seal up the leak i have with some RTV on the leak from the oil pan.

No more leaks, trans shifting properly again and my heat issue was the controller that changed from heat to cold. idk what its really called but its what your dial tells to go from hot to cold. It wasn't going all the way hot so it was replaced and works great. I sweat now while driving long times haha. loving it
 
  #20  
Old 12-14-2011, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MTopper
yeah. well, i fixed my trans pan today by replacing the seal and filter. then had my mechanic get his tiny hands back behind everything and seal up the leak i have with some RTV on the leak from the oil pan.

No more leaks, trans shifting properly again and my heat issue was the controller that changed from heat to cold. idk what its really called but its what your dial tells to go from hot to cold. It wasn't going all the way hot so it was replaced and works great. I sweat now while driving long times haha. loving it
Great news, im glad the rtv fixed the oil pan leak, Its called the blend door, i mentioned it earlier, glad you got it all fixed up.
 


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