Ok, now i am having a new issue. Breaks down when it's raining, which is probably the dist. Cap, but drove it fine today, turned it off for approx. Half hour, no rain or snow, completely dry. Got back in to start it, just cranked and wouldn't fire. Unhooked the positive and reset the computer twice, fired right up. Every time it fails to start, we unhook the battery etc and goes fine. What's funny is now i can turn it off to put gas in it, and it starts fine. No one i've taken it to can seem to figure it out.

 

Couple of things:
1) I do not think that disconnecting the battery resets the computer; requires the use of an OBD code reader to turn-off engine check lite.
2) Has your mechanic checked the condition of the battery cables? And I mean pulling back the plastic boots on each one to check for corrosion?
3) This has to be an intermittent electrical connection...but where?

4) Could you borrow a fuel pressure gauge from your mechanic and leave it connected so that when the engine does not start you have a way to check fuel pressure? This would eliminate the fuel pump if pressure remains.

Keep the forum updated.

 

There are vents on the base of the distributor that are known to get clogged shut resulting in moisture under the cap. Clean out the vents and spray under the cap with something like STP wire drier.

 

Unhooking the battery at this point shuts the engine light off. Just recently replaced the entire fuel system, tank pump filter relay plenum or however you say that lol after the rain incident we sprayed silicone spray on everything we thought might be getting moisture. And this doesn't happen every time i start it. It just has me stumped because i've replaced literally everything in this car. Sort of overkill because i've had each shop tell me it's this or that and it's still not working right.

 

I don't think that it would be the battery cables because i just had one of those optimum 4 post batteries installed and they seemed to be fine.

 

There is a main electrical connection under the battery tray,a large fuse.I had a corrosion problem on one of my Blazers and after cleaning the connections,everything worked better.Had a problem with dimming and flickering lights as well as the hvac blower acting up..

 

There is a way to check OBD1 with a paperclip. I think disconnect bat clears codes on OBD1. The constant fuel monitoring seems like a good idea but keep a fire extinguisher handy cause the guage isnt meant for the engine vibration and can develope a crack.

 

Replace the MAF sensor.I just chased the same problem on my son's 3.8 Buick and it was an intermittent problem with the MAF. Had to have a pro with a real time scanner watch the MAF until it acted up. Bought one on fleabay for $27 and bingo.

 

Ok, here's my update. I have had my blazer at a shop for the last 2 weeks. Engine light was on, mechanic said first that my coolant sensor was cracked and showing wires, so those were replaced. Still acted up. Took it back with engine light on. Showed a code for oxygen sensor so that was replaced. Engine light is now off. Went to start it the other day, all lights came on as usual but wouldn't start. Just cranked. I reset the computer by unhooking thebattery again. Light is no longer on. Spoke to the mechanic and he says my computer is bad, but this is the second one i've put into this car, brand new. had it installed maybe 6 months ago. Should i replace it again? Don't really want to spend the money if i don't have to. Just curious. In the past month of resetting the computer the engine light would come on within a few days, but since the sensor has been changed it hasn't come on since i reset it almost a week ago.

 

If I were you I would take it to a different mechanic.
Get someone who can diagnose rather than throw parts at it.