If it's a gasket leak, when you pull it apart, you'll see (usually pretty clearly) where it was leaking from.

 

I really appreciate all the help

Now that I've got everything lets see if that's it any threads on pulling this apart all I've seen is a different vortec model with the throttle body on top instead of facing towards the front

 

I have the same thing happneing to me. I was told the intake gasket is leaking. Planning to tear into it soon. Any suggestions on what else I should replace while I have it apart? I thought maybe looking at the injectors.

Also read the service manual on the procedure and it states if distributer is removed and intake is removed the engine needs to be rotated to TDC. If the engine is not turned why would this be needed if you take care to mark the distributor postion prior to removing?

 

The only reason I know of to put the engine at TDC is if your DID move the engine after removing the distributor. You just put a mark on the two parts so that it goes in exactly the same as it came out. You have to start it a few degrees from your mark as it will rotate clockwise slightly as it drops into the gear. As for other things to replace...if it aint broke don't fix it...not to be confused with cleaning everything real good while they're apart. Some people advise replacing the valve cover gaskets since you'll have clean access to them. Check the condition of all your coolant hoses and look for signs of seal leakage on the water pump. I had to replace my water pump 6 months after doing my LIM.

Contrary to some of the guides you do not need to remove the fan...at least I didn't on my 99. You may need to pry the AC/PS mount a bit towards the radiator to get at one of the from bolts but it does not need to be removed. Some guides show the wrong torque for the LIM bolts...should be 134 INCH Pounds or about 11 ft lbs in increments. A few people here have broken the LIM bolts off in the block..not fun to get out.

 

Well I did the intake manifold gasket after waiting for two weeks to get the right one they kept sending head gaskets its still pissing coolant like before I'm guessing that means my head gasket is more than
likely blown?? All that work and time just wasted

 

not nesseserely,the intake gasket are sensitive to too much torque at assembling,and are also easily disturbed at position when laying intake manfold on place.have you tried pressure to the system?i assume you put gasket glue round waterjacks/ peter

 

not nesseserely,the intake gasket are sensitive to too much torque at assembling,and are also easily disturbed at position when laying intake manfold on place.have you tried pressure to the system?i assume you put gasket glue round waterjacks/ peter

when I pressure test it what do I look for? Where its leaking from? Yes I put the black rtv around the coolant ports is there a chance I might have put too much?

 

When you do the pressure test look for bubbling anywhere on the exterior of the engine around the heads, intake or hoses. Since you do it without the engine running you should be able to hear a hiss. If you have an internal leak you can use a mechanics stethoscope (5-$10) to isolate whether it's one of the heads or the intake. The pressure tester looks like a bike pump, connects to via your radiator cap and should be available from Autozone loan a tool. I used one to test my system after a LIM job and found a small leak on the water pump bypass hose.

 

As soon as I pour water into the radiator it leaks out I can see it dripping onto the motor mount but can't see exactly where its coming from its on the driver side

 

Well if it's running onto the engine mount that sure aint the intake. Unless the leak point is hidden under an accessory mount bracket and it's running around the head.

But it COULD be a 'freeze plug'... thing is to check right under the head/block junction and see if it's wet there.