You're help is much appreciated, I'm obviously a novice. I connected the battery for ten minutes started and ran for several 30 sec episodes, all it would do, still no codes, with big draw on the battery (dash voltmeter read 11v) with just ignition on. Same procedure, only with right O2 sensor disconnected, still no trouble or pending codes--strong smell of gas both times. Checked code reader with another car (chronically shows codes without cat converter)--works fine. I'm waiting for SS check in a couple of days to buy a better multimeter.

 

Cpmon any more ideas?

 

If you disconnect the big connector on the fuel injector assembly, does that make the current draw go away?

You're going to have to figure out where the current draw is.

 

Fantastic idea--took me awhile (heat index 122)--tried it but made no difference. Appreciate any other ideas. I have a "friend" who is a mechanic at the local chevy dealer, said crankshaft sensors notoriously go bad--can't see that that would do it. You guys have been much more helpful.

 

OK. Here's "Finding the current drain 101" for you.

Step 1, determine if current drain exceeds capacity of your amp meter:

Get a (few) fuse(s) the same size as your multimeter's maximum amperage setting. You'll also need an inline fuse holder. Put the fuse in the holder. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and hold the negative cable to one wire of the fuse holder. Touch the other wire of the fuse holder to the negative battery terminal. Does the fuse blow? If it does, you can't clip your meter in there because the drain is bigger than your meter can measure. Skip to step 3 if the fuse blows.

For the next steps, be sure you have your red probe wire on your meter plugged into the "high amps" jack of your multimeter.

Step 2 - finding a current draw that is within the range of your meter:

For this test, you can use "test jumpers" with alligator clips, or you can make a special set of "test probes" for your multimeter. For "test probes", cut the probe end off the black probe wire (common/negative) and attach an alligator clip there. On the red wire, use a butt connector to connect an inline fuse holder to the red wire, and put an alligator clip on the other wire on the inline fuse. You want to connect the black probe from your meter to the negative battery post with an alligator clip/jumper wire. Connect the red probe from your meter through the inline fuse to the negative cable that you removed from the battery. Put a fuse in the fuse holder that matches the maximum current your meter can measure. You'll see the amperage the drain is drawing on the meter. Start pulling fuses from the under hood fuse block, one at a time, and checking the meter. If the meter changes, you've found a current drain. If the meter drops to zero, you found the only current drain. If it falls, but not to zero, you've found part of the current drain. Keep checking all the circuits. Tell me which circuit/fuse has the drain and we can start debugging that circuit.

Step 3, finding a drain that is bigger than your meter can measure:

For this, you'll need the special fuse holder/alligator clip test probes I described in step 2, or test jumpers set up that way, and you'll need two male spade lugs. Use an inline fuse to protect your meter. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Open the under hood fuse block. Remove a fuse and carefully push the two spade lugs into the fuse holder position. Attach your inline fused meter to the spade lugs with the alligator clips. If the inline fuse blows when you connect to that circuit, you've found a big drain (bigger than the fuse rating). If the inline fuse doesn't blow, note the current reading on the ammeter. If it's zero, there's no drain. Anything over zero is a drain, but small drains on some circuits are normal. For example, the radio draws minimal current (a few milliamps) to keep the presets set. After checking a circuit, pull the spade lugs out carefully and reinstall the proper fuse. Work through the whole fuse block that way. If you haven't found the drain in the under hood fuse block, check the fuse block in the dash, too. Again, tell me which fuse has the drain and we can start debugging the circuit(s) on that fuse.

Before you can start debugging individual items, you should find all of the current drains by methodically going through the fuse block(s).

 

Much appreciated, thanks