Just to clarify: this is the CV joint on the front driveshaft; the joint at the transfer case.

I have the old CV joint off; finally got the clip apart enough to slide joint off of driveshaft.

The new CV joint came with a piece I do not know what to do with, appears to be a clip but is made of round wire, in almost a circle but is open, like a "C" but the ends are closer together.

I first thought it was supposed to go into the groove on the driveshaft to hold the CV joint, but that clip is already there and is captured within the CV joint. So I have no clue as to where it is supposed to go.

It is not the band clamp that clamps around the rubber boot.

Sure appreciate insight here....no instructions came with the new CV joint.

Thanks

 

Here is a picture of this "clip". I contacted Dorman Tech Support and Chris told me twice that it is the clip that holds the CV joint onto the axle. I replied that it was not as that clip is already installed within the joint.
So all I can assume is that the "clip" is used in another application.

 

Okay forget the picture.
I think the "clip" replaces the one on the input shaft to the transfer case. The OEM one is square, this one is round.

But the problem I have now is that the CV joint is hitting the transfer case; appears that the OEM locking ring is not holding the new CJ joint in place so it slides rearward into the transfer case.

So I removed the OEM locking ring and after squeezing the new round wire "clip" smaller am attempting to put the driveshaft back into place and not getting very far as I can not get enough force to squeeze the "clip" and slide driveshaft into place.

So my question here is: when replacing the driveshaft CV joint are you supposed to put the CV joint onto the input shaft of the transfer case first....so you can use a block of wood and tap it on....and then slide the driveshaft into the CV joint??

Seems that would be the way to go. Too late for me though as the only way to get the CJ joint off the driveshaft is to cut the rubber boot to get to the locking clip which of course destroys the CV joint.

Would appreciate any suggestions as to how to get the driveshaft/CV joint back into place.

Thanks

 

Another update:
With the drive shaft in my bench vise I was moving the CV joint around and it just did not seem "right". I pulled on the joint to determine if the clip was holding the joint to the drive shaft and the joint began to slide off the drive shaft with only the rubber boot keeping in on. This is not "right".
I decided to cut the rubber boot off and off came the joint with the exception of the inner race which was held in place by it's clip. The inner race was no longer in the cage with the ball bearings.
Seems to me the joint has failed, so I am going to do a warranty return on it and get another one and hope that is it okay.

In removing the original CV joint, it only came off the drive shaft once I got the clip that holds the inner race to unlock and I removed the joint in one piece.

Again hopefully the replacement CV joint from Dorman will be correct as I have not been able to find any other brand.

 

Final update:
Received the warranty CV joint from RockAuto, no grease came with it this time. I added additional grease anyways and then put it onto the driveshaft; gave a tug backwards and no movement, so better than the first one.

Then got under the Blazer to install. I put some grease onto the transfer case shaft, put the OEM locking ring back on and then attempted to put the driveshaft on. Well...once again it would not just slide on. So block of wood and some tapping got the CV joint/driveshaft on just enough so I could get the U joint yoke to align. Got the strap bolts started and then tapped the drivshaft forward to fully seat the U joint yoke, tightened the strap bolts down and then went for a drive.

No more interference and all is good....finally! Hopefully I never have to do that job again. And now since it has turned cold here, sounds like the belt tension pulley bearing is going-out as it makes a bit of noise for a few minutes until warm.
Oh well....on to the next repair.