The other day I set out to replace the back brake pads and rotors on my 2004 Zr2 Blazer. I was able to replace one side within 20 minutes. When I moved on to the other side I took off the wheel, detached the caliper along with the brake pad bracket. When it came to the rotor I could not get it of, it would not even budge. I proceeded to hit it with a hammer, sprayed it with massive amounts of that p blaster stuff but could not get it to move. I then sprayed it with more penetrating oil and left it overnight. Today I came back and hit it more, I even resorted to heating it with a torch, nothing, not even a budge.
I was told by a few engineer friends of mine that I could put a bolt with a nut through the bracket hole behing the rotor and tighten the bolt against the rotor and this should break the rotor free...only problem...the holes are below the rotor on the rear of this car. So in the end I cannot figure out how to get this rotor off, I cant even get it loose or to wobble. It doesnt seem to be hung up on the e brake, its seems that it is rusted to the center of the hub. Does anyone have any innovative ideas on how to remove one of these things??? Let me know...

 

You have already tried basically everything hitting it will normally free it. You may want to slacken the ebrake cable to ensure they arent applied. They can make there own groove of rust,grease,and brake dust inside that will keep the rotor hung on.

 

I can make sure the e brake cable is loose. When I pound it with a hammer, should I do it from the front? Should I worry about hurting it or should I go to town on it?

 

Is there a way to get a big pulley puller on it?

 

i would go at it with the sledge from the back side. If your replacing it you dont have to worry about it.

 

The problem is I cannot really fit a hammer behind it and most of the back of the rotor has a heat shield behind it. I do not really know all that much about pulley pullers.

 

If the rotor turns and the parking brake is slack, it must be corroded to the hub.
Tap the outer perimeter of the rotor radially inward (hit the edge) while turning the assembly. Or hit it really hard. That will shock the corroded surface more than hitting the braking surface axially.