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How do I remove single injector from spider

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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 11:57 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by rockjock29bc
Ok so what I did was Turn the crank wheel until I saw the yellow line on it match up with a notch behind the wheel I think there was a yellow line and a black line so I matched the yellow line up with the notch that sits around 2 o'clock the black line was then somewhere down around the bottom but I couldn't see it, Then I pulled the distributor out and aligned the two dots or notches at the bottom with a little line that was on the shaft and the rotor was pointing towards it as well when I dropped it back in it all lined up to just slightly past the 6 maybe a degree or 2 off at most. does that make sense?
Sounds right to me as long as it was TDC#1 and not TDC#4. How did you determine which one? Is the rotor still pointing to the 6 when you line up the crankshaft balancer marks again or has it changed?
 

Last edited by LesMyer; Feb 17, 2015 at 12:01 PM.
Old Feb 17, 2015 | 12:35 PM
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I didn't determine which one and after watching a couple videos it is quite possible I did it wrong I did not pull plug number one to see if i could feel air coming through so I'm going to try to do it again following what they did on the videos and make sure i get it all right i'll let you know the outcome. I could have it tdc#4 instead of number 1 we will have to wait and see next time i get out there

So how is it possible to have tdc#4 instead of tdc#1 like say everything is set at tdc#1 would one full rotation of the crank wheel then be on TDC#4 and a second full rotation would be back at tdc#1?

Sorry if this is common sense stuff that any mechanic would know but I'm no mechanic
 

Last edited by rockjock29bc; Feb 17, 2015 at 12:44 PM.
Old Feb 17, 2015 | 03:35 PM
  #73  
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The crankshaft makes two revolutions for each one revolution of the distributor rotor. The lines on the dampener will line up, (see image below) when #1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke and TDC of the exhaust stroke. The rotor must be pointing at the "6" on the distributor housing when #1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke.


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When you remove #1 spark plug & turn the engine over with the starter, there will be a push of air from the spark plug hole on both strokes. The compression stroke will have a stronger push of air than the exhaust stroke. Crank it a few revolutions and you'll hear the difference. Try to time it so you stop cranking just before the stronger push. Then using a socket & ratchet on the crankshaft bolt, turn the crankshaft clockwise the last few degrees until the lines are just like in the image. Pull the distributor and reinstall it so the rotor lines up with the 6 when the distributor is fully seated against the intake manifold. If the distributor will not fully seat, you'll need to adjust the oil pump drive with a large flat blade screwdriver so the distributor shaft engages with the oil pump drive.
 
Old Feb 17, 2015 | 09:02 PM
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Thanks guys I got it its all where it should be now, still runs like crap but atleast its running now lol.
 
Old Feb 18, 2015 | 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by newguy
since you took it out, replace the whole thing. This is an upgrade from the original Amazon.com: ACDelco 217-3028 GM Original Equipment Fuel Injector Kit with Bracket: Automotive
What year did they start putting this on the blazers by the way?

I have a 2001 blazer and I was wondering If it would be an upgrade if I were to change it with this?
 
Old Feb 18, 2015 | 06:53 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Bolbol
What year did they start putting this on the blazers by the way?

I have a 2001 blazer and I was wondering If it would be an upgrade if I were to change it with this?
2003 through 2005 it was standard equipment. 1996 through 2002 it is a plug & play upgrade.
 
Old Feb 18, 2015 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rockjock29bc
So how is it possible to have tdc#4 instead of tdc#1 like say everything is set at tdc#1 would one full rotation of the crank wheel then be on TDC#4 and a second full rotation would be back at tdc#1?
Yes, you got it! 4-stroke engine takes two full turns of the crankshaft to fire each cylinder. #1 and #4 pistons (also #6 and #3, #5 and #2) go up and down at the same time, but #1 is on its power stroke while #4 is on it's intake stroke (and vice versa). So in a V6 we have 3 cylinders firing each revolution of the crankshaft. On this V6 first 1, then 6, then 5 on the first revolution. Then 4, then 3, then 2 on the second revolution. This is the firing order and also the order of the inside terminals in the distributor cap. This distributor turns clockwise. I guess some engineer was very proud of criss-crossing the connections inside of the cap to apparently keep the plug wires neat, but he just couldn't find a place inside the cap to run #1 and #3 the way he wanted. This Vortec distributor cap is the most stupid and potentially troublesome design I have ever seen.
 
Old Feb 18, 2015 | 04:53 PM
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The cap is designed so that no two adjacent cylinders in the firing order are next to each other on the cap.
 
Old Feb 18, 2015 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
The cap is designed so that no two adjacent cylinders in the firing order are next to each other on the cap.
That may be, but if it is a good design why are they so troublesome and no one except Delco is reported to make a good one? They don't handle any more voltage than a non Vortec ignition. I'm seriously asking the question not just being a smart ***.
 
Old Feb 18, 2015 | 08:02 PM
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Good question! Obviously there's something that AC Delco is doing that the aftermarket manufacturers aren't.
 



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