No, they do not rely on resistance. They are hall-effect sensors. A coil of wire around a metallic core. When a piece of metal swings in front of the sensor (the reluctor ring inside the wheel bearing), an electronic pulse is generated.

Spec... You really should do your homework...

I have repaired several WSS using the method I posted above and only once was the sensor actually bad (wiring disconnect inside the sensor body itself).

If it broke off close to the wheel, then you likely will have to get a new sensor. I would separate the wires that are still attached to the chassis side of the wiring and tape them off that way. You will likely have an ABS light on, but you would still be able to drive the truck. You could also remove the ABS fuse if you didn't want it kicking in again until fixed. The light would still be on as well, but...

 

the only thing that would change between a regular wheel speed sensor plus the wire and a wheel speed sensor with a splice in it would be the resistance, so the resistance that the splice causes would effect the way the abs gets its readings. i had a light up only when the vehicle would be moving. so thats why i assumed the only value that changed would be the culprit

 

Did you ever consider that your repair did not repair all of the bad sections in the wiring? When wiring gets ripped apart, there can be more than one break in the wiring. Again, just because you tried something and failed (or heard about it from a friend of a friend) doesn't mean that it will fail every time. If you don't understand how things work and how things can fail, maybe it's best if you sit back and learn about it. You don't have to attempt to reply to everyone...

 

yup 100% sure i did, verified it with continuity test and resistance from the other sensor, i also checked the tech manual for acceptable resistance readings just to make sure the other sensor wasn't bad.

 

And did the repaired sensor checkout properly? I guess not since you think you cannot repair them.

What you should have done is measured the mV-AC output from the repaired sensor and modified the airgap of the sensor to raise it to acceptable levels.

 

no it wasn't checking out right. the readings were way off compared to anything else, i've heard about changing the gap, can't say i tried it. i ended up even getting 3 other sensors from guys at work that had changed wheel bearings. there trucks were not showing an abs code either. i tried there sensors and they did not work either. i finally just decided to buy a new hub+sensor from napa. fixed it. in there replacement sheet it says the sensors are not interchangable. i don't know if thats true or to just get someone to buy a new hub and not try switching sensors first.

 

Welp fellas its worse than I thought. I went and pulled the abs fuse and the front wheels stopped locking up BUUTTT

it sounds like somethings banging around in the front end, especially when the wheel is cut all the way to either side. Its a grinding thumping sound.

I crawled under with a flashlight and I dont see anything out of place, the driveshaft isnt loose, the axles arent loose...and a jerk plow driver covered me in snow. LOL. FML

EDIT: Forgot to add it does it in 2 and 4 wheel drive

 

Sounds like the ABS wasn't the only issue. The clunking while turning could a blown CV axle. Do you see any green grease on anything?

 

Nope no grease. But what i did find today was the swaybar bolt on the passenger side is extremely loose, i can move it up and down.

 

My ABS wire corroded off the pass front sensor and it didn't cause any mechanical issues other then the ABS warning light and the lack of ABS if that helps.

I think the fact that you noticed the ABS wire off when this failure happened is just a coincidence.