While your poking around, here are some potential causes of your spark timing problems:

Worn distr gear or cam gear (may need a boroscope)
worn timing chain
distr off a tooth or more
the cam retard is way off
Defective or improperly mounted distr cap
Improper SP wire routing
Arcing from cap, wires, etc.
Bad CPS (coil output is way better so probably not)

George

 

i am having the same trouble with my 2003, i had in garage doing some work on brakes, was hard to start one day, the next cranks and cranks, no start. i to get the smoke back in air intake and a run on or sputtering when i go from crank to run position on the ignition, been trying everything. i dont have acess to scanner, way out in the boonies in nfld, ca.. if you come up with anything let me know, and i think my email is available here so if you do send there, i dont get on here to much

thanks all
wade

 

A coolant temperature sensor that thinks it's -40 outside can cause the fuel injection to flood the engine (maybe even a MAT sensor could also). Check using your OBD2 device to see what the PCM is seeing on the temp sensors. Don't mess with the crank sensor if you've got normal spark and fuel injector pulses. Sounds like you've got the distributor in correctly from your description of how you did it (but should you check it one more time?). Fuel return is OK or pressure would be higher than what you describe. Firing order correct? Good luck!

 

thanks for all these suggestions Guess what I did have a spark plug wire wrong 😑 the 1 and 3 where swaped put them back correctly took out all spark plugs (they are AC delco recleaned really well rechecked the cap and rotor for build up but its clean brand new.saw rotor was still perfectly in six marking when on tdc but still no crank.

did the mist test and no arking anywhere

Tested the scan tool and check for communication by flood clearing it and the tool shows me thay Im flooring the gas pedal. While flooring it it seems to want to start but dies out.

I ordered the compression tester Ill let you know how that test goes.

 

Wellll 😔😔 before I found you guys I had bought the crank sensor and thought I'd try it and if it doesnt work just put back the original... after reading here a few post it seems this means i may need a relearn even if i put back the original 😭 I still got spark and pulse thou
I will be pulling the dostributer and takung a look and re installing it just incase

 

A distr discussion:


Is your spark still wonky at the plugs but proper at the coil?

George

 

I wouldn't pull the distributor unless you can see it is installed wrong. Just pull the spark plug and do what you did before to put it on TDC #1. Then check where the rotor points. One thing..... you need to turn engine as it normally rotates to see the compression and then TDC#1. I know this might seem obvious but it might be a possibility.

I wouldn't worry about any crank sensor relearn being necessary until you get it started and running again. Crank sensor relearn is only used to calibrate PCM for misfire detection and will not cause a no-start or an actual misfire.

When you have it running again (smoothly) with the original crank sensor, I will tell you how to evaluate the misfire detection to know if you need to do a crankshaft sensor relearn.

You can look at the document attached to this thread if you want to read/see diagrams for the factory instructions on putting engine on TDC#1 for re-installing distributor. https://blazerforum.com/forum/articl...1996-a-101101/
It's not that you can change anything about ignition timing - that is determined by the crank sensor/PCM. But the rotor in the distributor does need to be pointing to the correct terminal when that spark is generated or the engine won't run.

 

thanks for all the help guys, i am at a loss on this, little history, i bought 3 blazers and picked the best one to fix up, it was running, put it in my shed and did the front end, the brakes and some other body stuff, the day before i was ready to take it out for a little test run it was hard to start but did start up. the next day all it did was crank no start, the funny thing is i crank it and when i put the key back to the run position it kinda runs backwards and fill the air intake with a bunch of smoke, the plugs seem to be fouling. so far have changed the distributar, cap and button, with one from another truck that was running as well, the cam sensor, the crank sensor, the coil, the pcm i think its called on the coil, the fuel relay, i primed the throttle body. did the tdc thing and verified that, will do it agian today, i been turning the engine clockwise so if from top looking at engine from from passenger side to drivers side. if i can get it running will take to a shop get it scanned and relearned and stuff as well will need a wheel alignment, where i am located i dont have access to a scan tool which sucks, am going to save and buy one when i can, will be back looking for advice then as well..

again thanks for all the help, my old 74 jimmy with the carb and 350 was so much simplier lol

wade

 

Are you the same person as Blaze305?

Better to start your own thread please. Too difficult to try to help two people in same thread.

 

no sorry, i am new to the group, i live in newfoundland canada, that being said i got a tonne of original parts if anyone needs anything, not sure how that would work, but am sure something could be worked out, i dont want anything for them, you just figure out how to get them, and to make matters worse i did a quick weld on a friends quad yesterday and a spark landing on the windshield, crackiing it, now i gotta figure out how to take that out lol, there has to be a less stressful hobby

thanks again guys

wade