Originally Posted by wadethenewf

no sorry, i am new to the group, i live in newfoundland canada, that being said i got a tonne of original parts if anyone needs anything, not sure how that would work, but am sure something could be worked out, i dont want anything for them, you just figure out how to get them, and to make matters worse i did a quick weld on a friends quad yesterday and a spark landing on the windshield, crackiing it, now i gotta figure out how to take that out lol, there has to be a less stressful hobby

thanks again guys

wade

Originally Posted by LesMyer

I wouldn't pull the distributor unless you can see it is installed wrong. Just pull the spark plug and do what you did before to put it on TDC #1. Then check where the rotor points. One thing..... you need to turn engine as it normally rotates to see the compression and then TDC#1. I know this might seem obvious but it might be a possibility.
💢💢 thank you yes I did the tdc and removed only the cap to check it again several times lol just to make sure it hasn't jumped from bad timing chain a.it's still where I left it with piston one at compression stroke with rotor aiming at the 6 marking. The reason I want too pull the distributor out again is because I want to check the terth on the gear even thought its new my irinial problem was the teeth in the old ine where really chewed up grinded and Im wondering if the cam yeeth are damaged 😔 I'm guessing if so this would really ser me back as the only way to replace that part is to replace the cam shaft yikes. I ordered and cheap endoscope boroscope to attach to my phone it has a light and everything hopefully this will help me tak a look in there.💢💢

I wouldn't worry about any crank sensor relearn being necessary until you get it started and running again. Crank sensor relearn is only used to calibrate PCM for misfire detection and will not cause a no-start or an actual misfire
💢💢 wow thank for telling me this cause i was feeling me temoving and remounting the crank sensor was another misleading problem but if it can start and after I get it at least running then I can take it to the dealership for relearn but if i had to tow it there not knowing if that's the problem that would be a headache and at that point my wife may cut my funds to continue my project lol 💢💢

When you have it running again (smoothly) with the original crank sensor, I will tell you how to evaluate the misfire detection to know if you need to do a crankshaft sensor relearn.
💢💢 that would be great 😀💢💢

You can look at the document attached to this thread if you want to read/see diagrams for the factory instructions on putting engine on TDC#1 for re-installing distributor. https://blazerforum.com/forum/articl...1996-a-101101/
It's not that you can change anything about ignition timing - that is determined by the crank sensor/PCM. But the rotor in the distributor does need to be pointing to the correct terminal when that spark is generated or the engine won't run.

Originally Posted by Blaze305

Tested the scan tool and check for communication by flood clearing it and the tool shows me thay Im flooring the gas pedal. While flooring it it seems to want to start but dies out.

Originally Posted by GeorgeLG

While your poking around, here are some potential causes of your spark timing problems:

Worn distr gear or cam gear (may need a boroscope)
💢💢 I really hope not 😐 i mean the distributor gear was my original problem as the gear was all messed up grinded so whe I took it to the auto part the guy there told me uts possible my cam gear got damaged but after looking at many post people say the can can take some abuse. If ut is the cam damaged what would be the repair? Not a mechanic but my guess it to replace the entore cam shaft which would not be an easy fix 😭💢💢 I ordered a cheap boroscope that connect to my phone once I get it I'll remove the distributor and take a scared look in there lol💢💢

worn timing chain
distr off a tooth or more 💢💢 ill check this once i check with the boroscope💢💢

the cam retard is way off
💢how do you check this💢

Defective or improperly mounted distr cap
💢ill take another look💢 its came all together when i bought the dostributor so i never moved it but maybe they placed it 180 off 💢
Improper SP wire routing
💢💢i check this they are all correct now💢💢
Arcing from cap, wires, etc.💢 i mist sprayed water and no arcing💢
Bad CPS (coil output is way better so probably not)

George

Originally Posted by LesMyer

Again, please check what the coolant temp sensor and Intake air temp readings are with your scan tool! If the PCM thinks it's -40 outside, then it's going to really be dumping gas into the engine and flooding it out (remember black sooty plugs) unless you are in clear flood mode. I'm done until you come back with these readings.

Originally Posted by LesMyer

Distributor drive gear on the camshaft should not be worn as the cam is made out of a harder material. 💢💢 that bring me relief 😁💢💢

Again, please check what the coolant temp sensor and Intake air temp readings are with your scan tool! If the PCM thinks it's -40 outside, then it's going to really be dumping gas into the engine and flooding it out (remember black sooty plugs) unless you are in clear flood mode. I'm done until you come back with these readings.

Originally Posted by Blaze305

Just checked it here a pic looks like it went from 75 degrees to 77 after i cranked it a few I times it seemed to a bit hotter so its seems to be reading.
after I flood cleared it while cranking and slowly released the gas pedal it turned on for few seconds and turned off again with a back fire flame like from the intake.

Originally Posted by LesMyer

Does mid-70's °F make sense for the coolant. I expect that it does.
OK - so the coolant temp is not an issue. Now make a gauge for the Intake Air Temp and tell me what that one reads. (In Torque select the gear icon and choose "Add display", select digital, select Intake Air Temperature)

Originally Posted by LesMyer

Does mid-70's °F make sense for the coolant. I expect that it does.
OK - so the coolant temp is not an issue. Now make a gauge for the Intake Air Temp and tell me what that one reads. (In Torque select the gear icon and choose "Add display", select digital, select Intake Air Temperature)

Are you running this with the MAF sensor and IAT sensor installed in the intake tube going to the throttle body? If not install this stuff.
💢💢I had the tube to the side so I reinstalled it and re did the tests including the intake tempature and air intake pressure
Here are my results (its now 95 and feels like 100 here💢💢
Did you ever get the compression gauge? If so, get a reading on one of the cylinders.
💢I'm still waiting in this will repost as soon as i get it 💢

Check & report any codes and then delete them from the vehicle.