First off, I have a 2000 Blazer that has been setting DTC PO753 intermittently. The funny thing is it shifts perfect and has no drivability problems. I hooked up my voltmeter to the instrument cluster fuse via "add-a-fuse" tap per my friend a GM tech. He told me to monitor the voltage as I drive. A considerate voltage drop would indicate a faulty ignition switch. I saw around 14.4 v on my 10 minute ride into town with CEL on (PO753). I stopped and got gas. When I started it to leave the voltage dropped. Anywhere from 2 v up to 8 v. then back up to 13ish v. Voltage was all over the spectrum...

I read the instructions in the DIY section but have a few questions.

Does the steering wheel have to be removed?
Will the passlock system fault and lock me out?
I just don't want to have to tow it to the dealer for them to reset the passlock...I was told by the parts store manager that "it can happen with security systems".
Any ignition switch brand recommendations? Niehoff/BWD and good? $55 for that one. All others carquest, Napa, Bumper to bumper all around $100

 

I assume this is the thread from Swartllk that you are referring to?
https://blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18255

I just replaced an ignition switch on my g/f's 00' blazer a couple weeks ago following the above link. No, the steering wheel doesn't need to be removed. Also, I did not have any issues with the passlock system when I replaced mine. Lastly, I bought my switch at Autozone for about $70-80.


Here are couple of tips:

1. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the airbag fuse before working around the steering column wiring. I believe you are suppose to wait about 15 minutes after disconnecting also before working around the electrical.
2. I pulled the front of the instrument panel off that holds the air vents, rear window and 4wd controls. I pulled it loose (by pulling towards you if you are sitting in the driver's seat) and then used a bungee cord to the rearview mirror to help keep it up an inch or two. I found I needed to do this to remove the top steering trim piece.
3. I found that the hardest part of this job for me was removing the trim around the ignition cylinder! When removing the trim around the steering column and ignition, there are tabs in the back and two screws that connect the top and bottom pieces together. Also, there is a bolt that holds the top trim piece to the steering column itself. You need to look from under the steering wheel next to the ignition cylinder to see it. Once you remove it and have the dash pulled out, the top piece will come off and then the bottom piece.
4. When you pull out your old ignition switch, note the location of the white "gears" on the portion of the switch that goes to the steering column / ignition cylinder. Match the gears on the new switch to the location of the gears in the old switch.
5. Install the new ignition switch and test your key to make sure it turns to all locations (accessories, on and start) before reassembling everything. The last thing you want to do is put everything back together only to learn that your key doesn't work right. If something doesn't feel right (mine didn't go all the way into "accessories" the first time), then pull it out and check the gears.

Hope this helps.

 

You could use my handy write up on the replacements with pics

https://blazerforum.com/forum/article-submissions-discussions-47/how-ignition-switch-replacement-discussion-thread-26553/


As for brands, thats up to you and what you want to spend. I went with Duralast..no complaints so far. As for the passlock, you might need to do a relearn procedure, or you might not. Youll know once you get it buttoned up and you try to start it. Also the important thing on the swap is getting the teeth on the switch gear matched up to the key position in the tumbler.

Edit: Speaking of my DIY.....whyd it never get moved to the DIY section? Kyle? Riddle?

 

Very nice Wolfpack....wish I had this when I did mine!

 

There has been a lot of articles that were not moved over. Prior to the change over, there was no easy way of doing it. Since the change over, there has been quite a few other things to do. I moved it over so that one at least is done. There are others that need to be moved, but I just do not currently have the time.

 

I am going to replace my ignition switch this week. How do you do the "re-alarm" feature? What is involved with this?

 

I assume you are talking about the Airbags... Also in the tech article (DIY) section:

98+ SIR Airbag Disabling & Enabling Procedures

 

I finally got around to installing the switch after testing different things. I got everything hooked up correctly, I'm sure. Everything seems to work but it just won't stay running? The key works in all positions....starts like normal just won't continue running when you let go of the key?

 

I figured it out. It was passlock fault. I did the 30 min relearn and now everything works fine

Someone had a crimestopper coolstart remote start on this blazer and it quit working or something and they just clipped wires. I've never seen this kind of work in my life and hope I never will ever again. It was a jungle under the dash!! They just cut off the insulation on the ignition switch wires and twisted them together and taped the connections, NO SOLDIER, WTF!!!! Some of the wires got hot because they were blackened a bit. Lucky it didn't start a fire! Also, 30 amp fuses on 18-22 ga wires, WTF. Not to mention, of the 3 passlock wires they connected the yellow and orange together, that is what lead me to the passlock fault. I bet with all that crap gone and everything fixed back to factory with a new ignition switch all my problems are gone.

 

Sounds like a mess under there! Glad you got it all fixed!