So NOW, I'm noticeing a scraping/squealing sound coming from what seems to be the engine. It has been getting worse and now it seems to slip when I'm driving. It will just rev up as if I'm in Nuetral when I'm in Drive as well as Reverse. Any thoughts?

 

I see this topic needs a little push......... I was told by someone that maybe just replacing the transmission filter and flushing it out with new trans fluid might help. Has anyone had any kind of issue like this before?

 

Would help to know the truck, and tranny.

First thing to check is tranny fluid. Is it full, smell OK, and red?
If you don't know how to check it or what your looking for post up.

I just broke my tranny Friday night while back ing up my driveway. Thinking I broke the sun gear, and won't know until I drop the tranny tomorrow and tear it apart.

Yours might be a torque converter. After your check the fluid level, take it too a tranny shop and see if you can get them to look at it.

 

Hanr, Its the same truck we've been talking about in every other post, a 98' blazer, in a blazer forum. Go figure. But none the less, you're one of the few who who have been helping. So thank you. I have checked the fluid, its fine. I'll take it somewhere this week and have them check it out. What symptoms would suggest a torque converter?

 

Not everyone reads every post. Might be a good idea to put your Blazer in your Sig line, then no need to worry about including prudent info with every problem.

 

Sorry, I don't make it a point to memorize everones vehicles.
Granted it is a Blazer site. however the S10-blazers had at least 3 different auto trannies and I think 2 different manual trannies over the 20 some odd years of production. Kind of hard to give info without knowing which one you have. Granted there are some simularities between the autos, and similarities between the manuals. However the manuals and autos are different althougher.

 

This is true, but in anycase I have yet to have any help. Its an automatic transmission, and for what we are dealing with, they all work the same way. They have variations yes, but they all work the same way. But none the less, if anyone knows if simply changing the filter and flushing it might do the trick or any other ideas. What happens is that when i start it cold, it will be fine, after a mile or so, it starts to make a scraping noise and I will eventually lose reverse, followed by drive, as in, they all act as if I were just in nuetral.... If anyone can help I'd appreciate it.

 

There's a TSB on this:
[quote]
Quote from AllDataDIY.com:
A/T - 4L60/65E No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-022C
Date: December 10, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject:
No Reverse, Second Gear or Fourth Gear (Replace Reaction Sun Shell with More Robust Heat Treated Parts)

Models:
1993-2005 Cars and Light Duty Trucks with 4L60/65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30 or M32)

Condition
Some customers may comment on a no reverse, no second or no fourth gear condition. First and third gears will operate properly.

Cause
The reaction sun gear (673) may not hold inside the reaction sun shell (670).

Correction
Important: There are FOUR distinct groups of vehicles and repair procedures involved.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and prior that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust washer:
^ The sun shell can be identified by four square holes used to retain the thrust washer. Use reaction sun shell P/N 24228345 reaction carrier to shell thrust washer (699B) P/N 8642202 and reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674) P/N 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and prior that have had previous service to the reaction sun shell:
^ It is possible that some 2001 and prior model year vehicles have had previous service to the reaction sun shell. At the time of service, these vehicles may have been updated with a Reaction Sun Shell Kit (Refer to Service Bulletin 02-07-30-003) without four square holes to retain the thrust washer. If it is found in a 2001 model year and prior vehicles that the reaction sun shell DOES NOT have four square holes to retain the thrust washer, these vehicles must be serviced with P/Ns 24229825 (674), 24217328 and 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and later that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust bearing:
^ The sun shell can be identified by no holes to retain the thrust washer. Use reaction sun shell, P/N 24229825, reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A), P/N 24217328 and reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674), P/N 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built from November, 2001 through June, 2002:
^ These vehicles should have the reaction carrier shaft replaced when the sun shell is replaced. Use shell kit P/N 24229853, which contains a sun shell (670), a reaction carrier shaft (666), a reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A) and a reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674). The appropriate seals and washers listed below should also be used.
^ When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition the transmission oil cooler and lines MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.

Follow the service procedure below for diagnosis and correction of the no reverse, no second, no forth condition.
Important: If metallic debris is found on the transmission magnet, the transmission must be completely disassembled and cleaned. Metallic debris is defined as broken parts and pieces of internal transmission components. This should not be confused with typical "normal" fine particles found on all transmission magnets. Failure to properly clean the transmission case and internal components may lead to additional repeat repairs.

*Attached photo #1*

1. Remove the transmission oil pan and inspect the magnet in the bottom of the pan for metal debris.
2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate SI document.
Important:
^ Inspect all the transmission components for damage or wear. Replace all damaged or worn components. The parts list below should be sufficient to correct this concern.
^ This condition does not normally require replacement of the transmission completely. Components such as

 

I did answer your question.
Other then checking the fluid level/condition there isn't much else you can do to the tranny. Sure you could change the filter and add new fluid, but that isn't going to fix your problem. You will need specialized knowledge and tools to test and diagnose the tranny. Take it too a shop and have them look at it.

I will be glad to help you save some money when they tell you it needs to be rebuilt. And if you feel comfortable with your mechanical skills I can recommend some books to help you rebuild it.

What Swart posted above is the problem I am having with my tranny in the '00 S10-Blazer 4x4. Unless your confident in your mechanical skills, this is not a do it yourslelfer project. You can save money by taking the tranny out and by putting it back in yourself. And I will be glad to offer tips and pointers.

 

Thanks Hanr3,

I've replaced manual transmissions before. This whole automatic is new to me. I've had a Triumph Spitfire and Jeep Wrangler before this. I'll know more Thurs night after I have the shop look at it. I'm kind of up in the air of what i want to do, if the tranny is shot. I might just sell it and cut my losses. At the same time, it'll be harder to sell a vehicle that doesnt move. If I end up fixing it, I think I'll just swap out a rebuilt one rather than trying to rebuild it myself. And swapping out a transmission is something i feel comfortable enough doing myself. Question: Does anyone know if the torque converter has a belt? Someone told me that the belt could be glazed over and that is why when the car warms up it starts to slip......