New switch is around $10 with lifetime warranty so if scrap yard won't "give" them to me, would it seem prudent to offer a few dollars for it? I mean if junkyard wants a good bit I'm better off going new anyway.

 

Never hurts to just try those simple things first. Make sure you have a solid connection, etc. Your best friend is a multimeter with wiring! So learning how to use one if you dont already know how, they are a huge time/money saver. If not, look up scannerdan on the youtube and get down some of the basics he teaches. He's a professor for an automotive program at some university if I remember correctly & posts his videos for everyone. I've learned quite a bit from that guy by just using a simple cheap multimeter to diagnose an issue before going any further. There's definitely a skill to it and if you can manage to get the basics down, it will save you some serious cash down the road rather than using the "replace it til you fix it" method, etc.

 

thsts the one thing I NEVER was good at sadly was electrical issues and using multimeters. There's a scrap yard literally like 5-7 minutes away from me.

Will any model Blazer have the correct switch or it need to be one of the years listed in the Haynes manual I have? I think was like 89-00 or something like that

EDIT: Also do you have any experience with radios? Wanting to know how to see why my back speakers don't work. I'm not sure if just not hooked to the receiver or if they're blown or something

 

On my ole '95 I had to add a rubber bumper to the door switch plunger to get it to shut off the light. Seems the distance was off just enough...for some reason.

As far as checking the speakers, just get a known good 8 ohm speaker, remove the rear door panels (carefully) and remove the electrical connector from the door speaker and connect it to the known good speaker. Turn radio on and listen. Probably have to get two jumper wires to make the connections. Does not matter which wire color goes to which known speaker terminals just to test.

If the speakers are shot, then you will need to try to see on the OEM speakers if there is a "+" and "-" on the terminals and then match these to the new speakers.

Also my '95 ate front brake pads in 12k - 15k miles, so keep a watch on them. The '95 model had two different 4.3L engine fuel injection systems, so if your fuel mileage is around 10mpg, probably time to change the "spider".

Good luck

 

Well since you jumped onto that subject....Gas gauge is "weird"? I can put 25$ in it and gas gauge goes to full. No way is it full. I'm sure it's a "sticky" float...Any ideas how to "unsticky" it?

What if I don't have a spare speaker?

 

Hey so I broke down and went and bought new "dome light" switch for both front doors. They work good . But now a NEW PROBLEM. The inside light seems to stay on indefinitely now (so tired of these "little issues") If I turn key off and lock it like its being parked for the night it goes off. but if I'm sitting inside it with it running the light seems to stay on indefinitely....what is wrong now?

 

Lanny, also wanted to ask about the "spider". Would that cause a roughidle that disappears around 1500 RPM?

 

Also is it possible for the "wheel switch" on the dash that controls the interior light and the dash brightness / backlighting could be bad?

 

Yes they go bad sometimes. Also just double check that it's not clicked all the way up...Sometimes it's the simple things that get overlooked

 

Pulled out dash switch and it seems to work. It clicks and has no corrosion or anything to indicate it's a bad switch new one is $50-$75 and once I buy it it's mine so not really wanting to go that route unless I KNOW that it's a bad switch.

Any other ideas?