Just received a 2003 chevy blazer ls
#1
11-07-2017, 07:53 AM
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Raeford,North Carolina
Posts: 24
Just received a 2003 chevy blazer ls
2003 chevy blazer ls that cranks but wont start. Just got out delivered on Sunday and really haven't gotten a chance to get into it yet but had looked over it yesterday. Any suggestions on what could possibly be wrong. I haven't check the fuel pressure yet to see if it's getting the proper pressure.
Last edited by 2001_chevy_blazer_owner; 11-07-2017 at 01:53 PM.
#2
11-07-2017, 09:06 PM
2003 chevy blazer ls that cranks but wont start. Just got out delivered on Sunday and really haven't gotten a chance to get into it yet but had looked over it yesterday. Any suggestions on what could possibly be wrong. I haven't check the fuel pressure yet to see if it's getting the proper pressure.
#3
11-08-2017, 03:13 AM
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Raeford,North Carolina
Posts: 24
[QUOTE=trollerguy;682169]Fuel pumps are weak on them. After you get little over 100,000 miles watch out.[/QUOTE
Thanks for the info and this one actually has 154,000 miles on it but as soon as i get my fuel pressure gauges I'll be sure to check that.
Thanks for the info and this one actually has 154,000 miles on it but as soon as i get my fuel pressure gauges I'll be sure to check that.
#4
11-08-2017, 11:51 AM
Go to Troubleshootmyvehicle.com and look at part 6 ---see link below--- to see 'How to trouble shoot a no start on a GM 4.3L V6'. There is much good info on how to trouble shoot problems on the 4.3L. 6 pages worth!
Part 6 -GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Index of Articles
Part 6 -GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Index of Articles
Last edited by jimspahr@msn.com; 11-08-2017 at 01:17 PM.
#5
11-08-2017, 05:39 PM
Spark, fuel, air.
Do you have a blue spark jumping a 1" air gap?
Do you have the fuel pressure results at the schrader/fuel rail as outlined in the sticky above? If you don't have a gauge (yet), do you hear the fuel pump energize at key on?. It's in the tank. Do you get pressure at the schrader on the fuel rail (be careful, use a rag and glasses). No pressure then you have a problem. Some pressure then you don't know yet.
Do you have any codes?
George
Do you have a blue spark jumping a 1" air gap?
Do you have the fuel pressure results at the schrader/fuel rail as outlined in the sticky above? If you don't have a gauge (yet), do you hear the fuel pump energize at key on?. It's in the tank. Do you get pressure at the schrader on the fuel rail (be careful, use a rag and glasses). No pressure then you have a problem. Some pressure then you don't know yet.
Do you have any codes?
George
Last edited by GeorgeLG; 11-08-2017 at 05:45 PM.
#6
11-10-2017, 07:01 PM
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Raeford,North Carolina
Posts: 24
Spark, fuel, air.
Do you have a blue spark jumping a 1" air gap?
Do you have the fuel pressure results at the schrader/fuel rail as outlined in the sticky above? If you don't have a gauge (yet), do you hear the fuel pump energize at key on?. It's in the tank. Do you get pressure at the schrader on the fuel rail (be careful, use a rag and glasses). No pressure then you have a problem. Some pressure then you don't know yet.
Do you have any codes?
George
Do you have a blue spark jumping a 1" air gap?
Do you have the fuel pressure results at the schrader/fuel rail as outlined in the sticky above? If you don't have a gauge (yet), do you hear the fuel pump energize at key on?. It's in the tank. Do you get pressure at the schrader on the fuel rail (be careful, use a rag and glasses). No pressure then you have a problem. Some pressure then you don't know yet.
Do you have any codes?
George
I did get my tools to check the fuel pressure and it showed about 60 to 65 and then dropped to about 55 after a minute or 2. I checked 2 of the spark plugs coils and no spark to either and none to the ICM. I noticed that one of the bolts on the DC was missing and the rotor had chopped into the DC wall. I'm determined to get the blaze on the highway. So each chase I get to work on her is what I intended to do. Also when I received it the battery was completely dead so I don't have any codes.
#7
11-10-2017, 07:04 PM
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Raeford,North Carolina
Posts: 24
fuel pump is good!
#8
11-10-2017, 08:10 PM
Do you have 1" of blue spark at the ignition coil output during cranking?
If not do you low voltage pulses on the primary between the ICM and the coil during cranking?
If not, do you have 12V at the ICM input and the coil primary input during cranking and run?
George
If not do you low voltage pulses on the primary between the ICM and the coil during cranking?
If not, do you have 12V at the ICM input and the coil primary input during cranking and run?
George
#9
11-14-2017, 06:22 PM
Quote : "I noticed that one of the bolts on the DC was missing and the rotor had chopped into the DC wall."
I just replaced the timing chain on my 200,000 mile mule. I had broken down due to losing one of the rotor screws, it ended up contacting the cap terminals violently. I replaced both, crank ,no start. Had a mechanic double check me and agreed a timing chain was most likely cause. replaced chain and gears, no start !? The rotor was not lined up properly ! (less than 180 degrees off) The rotor housing is pressed on to the distributor shaft, mine had moved, it was pointing to #5 terminal at TDC. It can rotate, if forced by hand, independent of the shaft & gear. (press fit loose) New distributor on the way
I just replaced the timing chain on my 200,000 mile mule. I had broken down due to losing one of the rotor screws, it ended up contacting the cap terminals violently. I replaced both, crank ,no start. Had a mechanic double check me and agreed a timing chain was most likely cause. replaced chain and gears, no start !? The rotor was not lined up properly ! (less than 180 degrees off) The rotor housing is pressed on to the distributor shaft, mine had moved, it was pointing to #5 terminal at TDC. It can rotate, if forced by hand, independent of the shaft & gear. (press fit loose) New distributor on the way
Last edited by 2004 Blazer; 11-14-2017 at 07:41 PM. Reason: speling
#10
11-15-2017, 09:27 PM
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Raeford,North Carolina
Posts: 24
Quote : "I noticed that one of the bolts on the DC was missing and the rotor had chopped into the DC wall."
I just replaced the timing chain on my 200,000 mile mule. I had broken down due to losing one of the rotor screws, it ended up contacting the cap terminals violently. I replaced both, crank ,no start. Had a mechanic double check me and agreed a timing chain was most likely cause. replaced chain and gears, no start !? The rotor was not lined up properly ! (less than 180 degrees off) The rotor housing is pressed on to the distributor shaft, mine had moved, it was pointing to #5 terminal at TDC. It can rotate, if forced by hand, independent of the shaft & gear. (press fit loose) New distributor on the way
I just replaced the timing chain on my 200,000 mile mule. I had broken down due to losing one of the rotor screws, it ended up contacting the cap terminals violently. I replaced both, crank ,no start. Had a mechanic double check me and agreed a timing chain was most likely cause. replaced chain and gears, no start !? The rotor was not lined up properly ! (less than 180 degrees off) The rotor housing is pressed on to the distributor shaft, mine had moved, it was pointing to #5 terminal at TDC. It can rotate, if forced by hand, independent of the shaft & gear. (press fit loose) New distributor on the way