Will do. I pulled my dist. with no issues, so have to go and get one tomorrow. Will post my results. Thanks.

 

Alright, so I FINALLY got the distributor in. Hooked everything up, left the key in run position for about a minute, fired it up and it went straight to 2000 RPM's and stayed there. So is it the throttle position sensor, or the idle air controller?

 

My bets are on the idle air controller. Did the rpm change at all after initial start from sensor calibration? If it didn't I would say the idle air controller was the culprit. Test both to be sure its not an electrical problem.

 

It did it after I cleaned them both. When I was putting the TPS sensor back in, I heard a snap, so I'm not sure if it's damaged. Maybe I'll just go to the junk yard and get some used ones. Is there an easy way to test them?

 

There are tools for it including a tech-2 to test communication with the valve. Some use a stethoscope though that wouldn't necessarily tell you if its bad...just if the valve is moving within the housing.

I guess the best you can do is a resistance test across the wire pairs to ensure continuity. IAC Valves are only 35 bucks. Couldn't hurt to just replace it.

 

Question, should I be able to push the pintle on the IAC in and out? I called the LPS and they want $155 for a new one. Crap on that.

And if my truck fires up does that mean the distributor was put back in properly? Will I have to adjust the timing? If so how do I do that?

 

*bump*

 

Alright, so another problem has arose. I went out to start my truck to see what would happen if I put it in gear, turned the key and nothing. The battery is fully charged, so I figured it was the starter. So I banged on it, now when I turn the key I can hear the starter clicking, and when I let go of the key and leave it run I can hear a clicking from underneath the dash that happens in intervals and lasts for a few seconds. WTF? I've had it up to here with this truck. Any ideas?

 

Alright, so I finally caved and took it to the mechanic. It turns out I have oil and gas mixed in my crank case, and the shop foreman is about 90% sure that the timing chain is screwed, and with my model it takes about 10 hours for them to pull everything off to get access to it. And then the parts are about $500 for that. It does start but it's not drivable. And my heater control box is gone, another $500 fix. And who knows how much to fix my wipers. Anyways goodbye Blazer.

 

Alright, so I solved my problem. I bought a 97 Jimmy for $1500. Life is good again.