1996 Blazer 4wd 4dr. I've removed everything on top of the LIM (left the upper plenum on), pulled the distributor and disconnected the fuel lines. The LIM is stuck to the block, does anyone have suggestions as to removal of the LIM. I was going to cut away the old rtv on the front of the valley and pry with a knife, but I didn't want to nick the manifold. Suggestions from past experience?

 

It has RTV in the front and the rear. Use a prybar and a little force.

 

Use a large blade screwdriver between intake and head. It will not take much prying to break the RTV seal. Pry from both sides, front and back.

If you feel it is requiring too much effort, then something is still holing the intake.

Did you remove the air plenum? If not, that O ring sure seems to have a lot of resistance for such a small thing....but it can.

 

When I did mine I shook and pull it at the same time i found its easier to remove the plenum then the intake but thats just me.

 

I am doing the lower intake gasket replacement on my 95 Blazer as I am typing. I tapped the manifold lightly with a rubber mallet and lifted it with a pry bar. It came right off and needless to say, the gasket was bad and looked exactly like the pictures people post on the net. There was a crack on the rear right backside of gasket. The gasket looks like it may have been replaced at one time because the sealant appears not to be 18 years old. I was impressed that the lifters had no sludge inside and it was very clean for having 150,000 miles on it. Good luck

Bizzs

 

I just finished my LIM job. The manifold bolts were nowhere near tight and the manifold just lifted right off. The disassemble/reassemble took less time than the cleaning. 3 hours spent using a soft wire wheel on the block and manifold then scraping out the water jackets and bolt holes. Bolts in good shape but needed a good cleaning. A little pitting around water and bolt holes. LOTS of "snot" caked to the top of the valve covers. My wife loved it when I put the in the sink to soak in soapy hot water. Threw the whole upper assembly into a bin with solvent and soaked/ brushed Apparently the guy I bought the car from knew there was a problem, the heater core was bypassed and it had a new water pump and radiator filled with water and block seal (I think this is why there was so crusty stuff in the water jackets and bolt holes). I tapped all the threading then final cleaning of block with solvent. Bought a extra tube of sealer and put a liberal amount in the front and back. I even coated the bolts with it (old mechanics trick). I didn't do the upper gasket as I like to deal with one problem at a time and didn't want to have a problem with the spider. I didn't try to start it that day, I wanted the sealant to cure. Changed oil next day, added in green coolant (I don't care what anyone says DO NOT put dexcool back in) Ran great, but I did have to flush the heater core a few more times as crap got stuck in there.

 

The water pump being replaced may have been the result of using ethylene glycol. Not a good idea at all. The green coolant contains an abrassive that destroys the water pump seal. Lack of proper maintenance to the Dexcool will cause the heater core and radiator to plug up. Ethylene glycol does not protect aluminum from corrosion, (neither does neglected Dexcool) which causes pitting. Intake bolts need sealer applied to stop oil leaks and to hold the bolts in place due to the low torque, (132 inch pounds done in 3 steps).

 

I know, I put some additive in for that but aluminum has been used in engines long before Dexcool. I just have never seen the total amount of hardened up crap in the water jackets as I have seen in this. I know the guy who had it before me did absolutely no maintenance on it until things broke. I did think it was Bars Leak at first but it was indeed hardened Dexcool. Large whiteish, amberish chunks. I read an article somewhere that Dexcool has caused a lot of problems for Chevy, apparently a lot of out of court settlements and "technical bulletins" not for the public to see. Ether way I happy that the water isn't disappearing anymore. Now I just gotta get all the air out of the system and get some heat back

 

I just completed mine as well "2001 Blazer dies on highway". Bolts were not at all tight. Like you, I did not change/remove the plenum. I stuck a few fingers into the themostat hole, positioned my other hand on the throttle body, a couple of shakes and it was free. I had a severe leak, 2+ gallons went into the crankcase in a 10 mile drive. After install, my heater also did not work and did so after a flush.