Lost my rear brakes :-(
#1
Lost my rear brakes :-(
One minute life was good...the next the pedal goes to the floor and the 'Brake' light is on.
I crawled under the truck and it is wet/dripping brake fluid from about the middle of the driver's side frame.
I assume there is a line that runs to the brakes in the back and it has rusted away - love Michigan road salt... :-(
Is this an easy repair? Do I need to drop the fuel tank? I have bent many lines before for fuel and tranny but nothing on this truck.
Thanks for any advice :-)
Will
1998 S-10 4x4 4.3
I crawled under the truck and it is wet/dripping brake fluid from about the middle of the driver's side frame.
I assume there is a line that runs to the brakes in the back and it has rusted away - love Michigan road salt... :-(
Is this an easy repair? Do I need to drop the fuel tank? I have bent many lines before for fuel and tranny but nothing on this truck.
Thanks for any advice :-)
Will
1998 S-10 4x4 4.3
#2
You can do a patch, but I can't think of the name of a certain part. So I'll have to let you know after I think of what it's called.
#3
Easiest way will be to get a new peice of 1/4" brake line and run it on the side of the frame. I have a body lift so I can access the brake line easy but if you do not it will probably save you a lot of headaches instead of trying to route it in the stock holders. There is a union connector on the front of the brake line just behind the front driver side wheel that you will be able to plug the new line into. At the rear there is a crossmember that the brake hose(rubber) runs up into and the fitting you will unscrew will be on the top of that crossmember.
Soak both ends in PB Blaster overnight to loosen up the connectors. Cut the brake lines with a hacksaw or small pipe cutter right before the connector and then you can use a socket on it so you will be less likely to round it out. If it still wont come free use a little heat just be cautious. Then screw in your new brake line and bleed your brakes/check for leaks. Should only cost you about $10. Take care as you're bending the brake line if you want you could get a cheap hand bender for $10 or just use your thumbs slowly, do not kink the lines!
Soak both ends in PB Blaster overnight to loosen up the connectors. Cut the brake lines with a hacksaw or small pipe cutter right before the connector and then you can use a socket on it so you will be less likely to round it out. If it still wont come free use a little heat just be cautious. Then screw in your new brake line and bleed your brakes/check for leaks. Should only cost you about $10. Take care as you're bending the brake line if you want you could get a cheap hand bender for $10 or just use your thumbs slowly, do not kink the lines!
#4
I have tubing benders, cutter, flairers (is that a word?) :-)
I looked as best I could from the ground and it looked like the gas tank was in the way. Is this the case?
I will have it up on a hoist to do the repair but just trying to get a feel for how much time/effort this will be.
Sounds like the splicing part is a breeze so thanks for the heads up there.
Will
I looked as best I could from the ground and it looked like the gas tank was in the way. Is this the case?
I will have it up on a hoist to do the repair but just trying to get a feel for how much time/effort this will be.
Sounds like the splicing part is a breeze so thanks for the heads up there.
Will
#5
I believe that the brake lines do run between the frame and the fuel tank which will complicate the replacement procedure. But if you do not remove the old lines and just run new, you should not have as much of a headache when done.
#6
I just got the truck up on ramps (both driver's side) and all washed off under there. Wow..a lot of sand/mud/rocks...no wonder the lines are trashed :-)
There are 4 lines on top of the frame rail. The inner two are larger diameter and are spotless, the one on the inside is smaller and is clean, the one on the outside is smaller and is TRASHED!!!!
Is that the brake line? Not sure which one but I assume based on the cracks and rust on that line is is.
Swain - I will take a look for the connections you mention. Will I need about 6 feet of tubing?
Will
There are 4 lines on top of the frame rail. The inner two are larger diameter and are spotless, the one on the inside is smaller and is clean, the one on the outside is smaller and is TRASHED!!!!
Is that the brake line? Not sure which one but I assume based on the cracks and rust on that line is is.
Swain - I will take a look for the connections you mention. Will I need about 6 feet of tubing?
Will
#7
got new line bent and installed. Lots of mud and gravel up in there :-)
Bled the brakes and got clean fluid to the rear calipers but there is still a lot of mush in the pedal and although the BRAKE light is off 99% of the time it does flicker on when I first tap the brakes then they firm up and it goes out.
Not sure but I suspect when I totally drained the rear line air got into the ABS and/or the master cylinder. It seems to be working itself out and I don't want to pay the stealership to power bleed them but I may end up going that route.
Apparently they can "trigger" the ABS and get the air out of it somehow.
Bled the brakes and got clean fluid to the rear calipers but there is still a lot of mush in the pedal and although the BRAKE light is off 99% of the time it does flicker on when I first tap the brakes then they firm up and it goes out.
Not sure but I suspect when I totally drained the rear line air got into the ABS and/or the master cylinder. It seems to be working itself out and I don't want to pay the stealership to power bleed them but I may end up going that route.
Apparently they can "trigger" the ABS and get the air out of it somehow.
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