metal ticking noise when accelerating
#11
No idea what kind of differential i have, but i'm guessing whatevers stock on the 96 blazer, that's most likely what i have.
#12
just took a stab in the dark with the 3.42 open, being stock i doubt its a g80 unless its a zr2
#13
g80 and ZR2 are not necessarily paired. my mom-mobile 4dr LS has the g80. it was just an optional rear diff.
check your rpo cods focus on the gXX codes. write em down, and google (or search on here) for an rpo decoder. it will tell you would you gears.
check your rpo cods focus on the gXX codes. write em down, and google (or search on here) for an rpo decoder. it will tell you would you gears.
#14
I'm pretty sure i have the g80... at least thats what i think he said. I just got back from the mechanics garage to look at the car and the differentials definitely shot. He opened it up and there were cracked pieces everywhere. Not sure what theyre called, but one of the wheels inside the differential was pretty much cracked in half.
I guess i dont really have much of a choice, but to replace it. It's going to actually be 550 for parts and installation. Hopefully thats not too expensive, but i need a car.
I guess i dont really have much of a choice, but to replace it. It's going to actually be 550 for parts and installation. Hopefully thats not too expensive, but i need a car.
#15
I'm pretty sure i have the g80... at least thats what i think he said. I just got back from the mechanics garage to look at the car and the differentials definitely shot. He opened it up and there were cracked pieces everywhere. Not sure what theyre called, but one of the wheels inside the differential was pretty much cracked in half.
I guess i dont really have much of a choice, but to replace it. It's going to actually be 550 for parts and installation. Hopefully thats not too expensive, but i need a car.
I guess i dont really have much of a choice, but to replace it. It's going to actually be 550 for parts and installation. Hopefully thats not too expensive, but i need a car.
GL, let us know how it went.
#16
for $200 less you COULD put a Lock-Right locker in there. and for $100 less you could put a NO-Slip locker instead....
#17
So the new rear differentials in and the ticking/knocking noise is gone. The $550 price included everything installed. The car runs perfect in 2wd and actually seems like its got some more torque now.
Now the new problem. A couple hours after leaving the shop, i think to myself that i should try switching the 4wd to see how it runs. Well it pretty much doesnt run in 4wd.
I clicked the 4wd button and immediately it sounds like the cars winding up and it starts pulling hard to the left. It felt like i dropped the car in 4lo, but it was in 4hi with a strong pull to the left.
Any idea why a newly installed rear differential would cause this to happen? I'm 100% sure this was caused by this install because the 4wd was working perfect a week ago during the snow storm. Any ideas here before i bring it back for them to look at?
Now the new problem. A couple hours after leaving the shop, i think to myself that i should try switching the 4wd to see how it runs. Well it pretty much doesnt run in 4wd.
I clicked the 4wd button and immediately it sounds like the cars winding up and it starts pulling hard to the left. It felt like i dropped the car in 4lo, but it was in 4hi with a strong pull to the left.
Any idea why a newly installed rear differential would cause this to happen? I'm 100% sure this was caused by this install because the 4wd was working perfect a week ago during the snow storm. Any ideas here before i bring it back for them to look at?
#18
Damn. I dont know what could cause that. My only advice, "If it hurtswhen you do 'this', then stop."
call that dude on monday, dont put too many mile on the truck, and for God's sake dont keep screwing with 4wd unless you want to break stuff.
i could be wrong, it might just need you to rough it up a bit and let it know whos boss, but i doubt it
call that dude on monday, dont put too many mile on the truck, and for God's sake dont keep screwing with 4wd unless you want to break stuff.
i could be wrong, it might just need you to rough it up a bit and let it know whos boss, but i doubt it
#19
No theres definitely something wrong. It pulls real hard to the left and it definitely isnt driving like it should when it 4wd.
I just tried it twice. Once to test it out and twice to make sure it wasnt a fluke. It's not going back into 4wd until i see him again on monday.
I just tried it twice. Once to test it out and twice to make sure it wasnt a fluke. It's not going back into 4wd until i see him again on monday.
#20
may sound like a stupid question, but is he sure the right ratio was installed?
'cause you can't run different ratios in the front & rear diff's. and by different, i mean you can't run them together. if your factory ratio was 3.42's, and he installed a set of 3.73 gears, it'll result in a biiiiiiiiig problem-and more damage to boot!
personally, i've never had this happen, so i can't say for sure whats happening, is because of this example i gave.
but at least your truck is driveable for the time being.
'cause you can't run different ratios in the front & rear diff's. and by different, i mean you can't run them together. if your factory ratio was 3.42's, and he installed a set of 3.73 gears, it'll result in a biiiiiiiiig problem-and more damage to boot!
personally, i've never had this happen, so i can't say for sure whats happening, is because of this example i gave.
but at least your truck is driveable for the time being.