Here is mine toggling the A.I.R. pump on and off in my 2001 Blazer. From Connecting to toggling to exit. If you turn up the sound you can hear the pump turn on and off (along with Darth Vader style breathing). Note that sound doesn't start recording at all until the pump starts.

Maybe my previous instructions were not quite right, as I wrote it from memory. And I think I forgot about the screen where you choose to connect with "10". But this is how I do it. I guess pulling in that PID file is only useful for making gauges without hooking up to the vehicle.

 

Here is my Car Gauge Video. Your instructions seemed to be right one its just I was getting varying results. For example, this video is from my phone to my tablet, and this is the first time I was able to just hit connect and it didn't try to have me redo the full scan even when I had saved PIDs before. I am pretty sure I am doing exactly what you are in your video and am getting the invalid error that pops up at the body when I try the pump (the video whites out the text though the errors is definitely there).
I will see if I have anything here that I can rig up a back prob to try to ground out 436.

After re-watching mine, i am seeing mine is not asking for the OBDII device, it just goes straight to port 10. Not sure if that is anything as is seems to connect to the OBDII plug just fine.

 

So I just put my original relay back in, pulled the back plate to the secondary air fuse/relay block, and back probed the Brown wire with key in run and sure enough the pump fires right up. So this is telling me that their is a break in the brown wire between the PCM and the relay block, the PCM is not doing its job it trying to trigger the ground (which would also maybe explain my fog light, drivers door, power issues??), or there is some sort of separate ground strap that the PCM uses for this circuit that it may not for others that are still working.
If I am reading the rest of the schematic correctly, when the pump in energized by the AIR Relay, the Air Solenoid will also be be activated. I haven't gotten to testing that out yet as I have to tear it down more than I can at my apartment. But assuming that functions and the vacuum is working now that I have replaced all the vacuum lines in the truck, I am thinking I may be able to again back prob the relay to get the pump to start without the PCM grounding and then start the truck in hopes of having the PCM see the drop in O2 voltage and think itself is running the secondary air test and maybe trip it to Ready? Or does anyone know if the PCM has to initiate the test rather than always "looking/listening" for the O2 drop based only on engine coolant temp and ambient air sensor etc?

Suppose I will try that in either case as if it trips it gives me 2 years to figure out this worthless system before the next test.
I if I can get out to my space and tools and a full schematic I will try to do a continuity test between the brown 436 wire from the PCM to the relay to check for that brake unless there are other ideas.
As always very much appreciate the help.

Just watched this guy ( ) who is saying that this test only happens in closed loop, which I suppose makes sense regarding O2 feedback happening, this would also explain why I never hear the pump kick on because i am only starting and running idle and just till closed loop and or driving by closed loop time. thoughts on this as well?

 

I see absolutely nothing wrong with how you operated Car Gauge Pro. I assume that it will monitor generic Powertrain PIDs like O2 sensor voltage and GM enhanced PIDs like cam sensor retard???? Maybe your OBD2 adapter is the issue? This is the infamous bidirectional control that cheap scanners are not supposed to be able to do. Didn't you say something about having to reconnect bluetooth a couple of times. I think yours goes straight to "10" because you probably don't have any other Bluetooth devices for your phone, and I have Bluetooth receivers in car and home for music and phone - so these pop up and I have to choose OBD2.

My adapter is the first generation BAFX Bluetooth OBD2 adapter from Amazon. I see that what they offer now is a different design case, but I know that people have bought them and they worked fine with Car Gauge Pro (although no one has checked things like this AIR Pump on/off activation with the new design). You could buy one of these and if it doesn't do anything more for you, then return it for a refund - Amazon is really good about that. That's the only thing that I have for you at this point.....

 

Below is from https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-35146/

PCM definitely has to initiate the test.

I believe that active DTCs would include any pending codes (faults that have not yet turned on the SES light), as well as ones that have. I think your IAC or your misfire detection might have codes pending, preventing the secondary air test from completing. Maybe...….. It's just a guess. Torque should list pending codes (as pending) along with the rest.

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC (P0410) Secondary Air

* No active ECT sensor DTCs
* No active IAC sensor DTCs
* No active HO2S DTCs
* No active misfire DTCs
* No active MAP DTCs
* No active Fuel Trim DTCs
* No active EVAP DTCs
* No active TP sensor DTCs
* No active IAT DTCs
* No active MAF DTCs
* The MAF is less than 25 g/s .
* The commanded air/fuel ratio is 14.7:1.
* The engine load is less than 34 percent .
* Power Enrichment Mode is not active.
* DFCO (Decel Fuel Cutoff Mode) is not active.
* Catalyst overtemp protection is not active.
* The system has been in Closed Loop Mode for more than 20 seconds .
* The Short Term Fuel Trim is between 124-132 counts.
* The engine speed is more than 550 RPM .
* The ECT is between 80-110°C (176-230°F) .
* The system voltage is 11.7 volts or more.

 

Wel at least I am not crazy...yet. I setup a few gauges and they are reading correct, including RPM, Coolant Temp and the cam retard readings.
As for the adapter, I have what looks to be the same one and I have had it from Amazon as well for a couple years. It is still in the truck but wondering if there any version numbers printed on yours or something in one of the apps I could verify?
Thank you

 

I will check here in a few minutes on pending codes, but as of my last reset and several long drive cycles I did not have any in pending. Just those weird three $06 code data ones we weren't sure about.
I will see if I can setup a gauge panel for as many of these as I can, though I really wonder about the coolant temp. I can't remember now but it never seems to get up to 200 on the actual car gauge. I will see what torque shows in detail.
Thank you

 

Is yours the BAFX one? In Torque, when connected to vehicle select Adapter Status/Adapter Manufacturer and Adapter Status/Adapter Version and post what it says. Also select Adapter Status/Adapter PID read speed and post what it says. I'll do the same, but have to wait until I get home from work.

You may want to be careful about reading too many PIDs at once. If your adapter only does 3 scans/sec - you spread those 3 scans over however many PIDs you are reading. I benchmarked mine once and my BAFX was 20 scans/sec. I had another adapter from Amazon and it was three scans/sec - horribly slow. The OBDLINKMX for $80 was 30 scans/sec and I sent it back (no real advantage on my Blazer for a lot more money).

 

Well I missed the part about the read speeds because i was in the truck reading on my phone but the Manufacturer"OBDII to RS232 Interpreter" and that section didn't seem to let me click it for more information. The Version reads as "ELM327 v1.5". There is however and error right above these as you can see that I didn't really pay attention too until now looking at them on my computer. I will have to go back down and check that out, maybe it is the adapter, maybe its a knockoff.

So new turn of events / new discovery also. Since I have been only focusing on the coolant temp being within 11 degrees of the ambient area to start the drive cycles after reading thats what was needed for the secondary air to work, I setup the gauges according to the information you posted above. I idled until it reached closed loop and then took it for a 20 minute drive around town. The temp maxed out at I think it was 166 (forgot a screenshot) This was even after parking it and going into the store for 10 minutes where it would rise the most. It is currently 54 degree right now but even with that mechanical fan i would think it would reach that needed 176. I am now thinking the thermostat may be stuck or someone put a lower temp one in. I am reading the factory is a 195 on some posts can you confirm? Maybe i will pickup a factory temp new one just to be sure.
Maybe it did get a bit hotter when its warmer to have tripped the ready status a few weeks back, but looking at the gauge in the truck, )which is very deceptive going with its range of what 13.75 increments?) I have never seen it anywhere near the 210 mark while driving and here it is now at max which works out to be within 2 degrees of what torque was showing as about 166. I never did the increment math and figured I was at about 200 this whole time just by glancing but my guess this is also a large part of my MPG issue. I am really hoping its either a stuck or lower temp replacement. Just need to very the factory temp for a California truck and i will swap that today... in a parkinglot somewhere haha.

 

You may be on to something with the temp only going up to ~166° max. If it hit the magic number of 167° (probably did for 30 seconds anyways) then the P0128 would not set - yet the AIR pump test would never run at temps below 176° (It is not absolutely confirmed that P0410 conditions must be met for readiness monitor test to run, but I believe that is true) and this seems to be where you are operating. I would put a thermostat in it. One of the few cheap and easy things to do on a Blazer! 195° is what it takes. Replace ECT sensor if that doesn't get the PCM to see 195°. Also cheap and easy!!

Who would have thought we would be investigating engine temperature when we started?? This one is turning into a epic classic!!

I previously got an intermittent P0128 when I had a bad thermostat before.

DTC P0128: ENGINE COOLANT FAILS TO REACH PRESET TARGET TEMPERATURE

Circuit Description
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor monitors temperature of the coolant. This input is used by PCM for engine control and as an enabling criteria for some diagnostics. The airflow coming into the engine is accumulated and used to determine if engine has been driven within conditions that would allow engine coolant to heat up normally to thermostat regulating temperature. If coolant temperature does not increase normally or does not reach regulating temperature of thermostat, diagnostics that use engine coolant temperature as enabling criteria may not run when expected. This DTC will only run once per ignition cycle within the enabling conditions. If engine coolant fails to reach a preset target temperature before a calculated airflow is accumulated, DTC P0128
will set.

Conditions For Running DTC

• DTCs P0105, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0122, P0123, P0130, P0131, P0132, P0171, P0172, P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204, P0300, P0301-P0304, P0336, P0440, P0442, P0446, P0452, P0453, P0502 and P0503 for automatic transmission only, or P1441 are not set.
• The engine has run more than 30 seconds and less than 20 minutes.
• The minimum Intake Air Temperature (IAT) is more than 19°F ( -7°C).
• The ECT at start up is less than 158°F (70°C).

Conditions For Setting DTC

• The average airflow is more than 15 g/s.
• The vehicle has traveled more than 1.5 miles over 25 MPH.
• Enough airflow has entered the engine and the ECT has not risen to 167°F (75°C) for 30 seconds.