No, today I drove a short distance and looked at the difference between the actual temperature and the temperature of the sensor after the trip.
and 100 degrees gauge showed after a trip of 30 miles.

About graph. Green is - B1S2, Red - B1S1, But I will double chek this.
It seems to me that I have only 2 O2 sensors, before the catalytic converter, and after. 1995 year. Stupid CPI.

 

On the ECT reading. You can compare the reading on a dead cold engine to ambient. You can also shoot the housing with an ir gun when hot and of course compare the dash gauge to the scanner.

A 95 only has either 1 or 2 O2 sensors. You must have a "W" engine VIN code (8th digit) with 2. That precat sensor (B1S1 or O2L1) or its circuit has a problem and needs to be fixed. So the graph and the P0131 and P0132 codes all go together. You would start by doing some testing at the wiring harness under the truck with a multimeter. Let me know if you want help with this.

George

 

Car Diagnostic Pro won't do Cam Sensor Retard on anything before 1998.

 

Thanks for the tip. but how to do Cam Sensor Retard then ?

 

Sorry for the long answer. War makes adjustments to plans (I'm from Ukraine).

I bought and will install soon new o2 sensors, also fixed problems in the harness. But will the o2 sensors work correctly if the cat is removed?

 

The rear o2 sensor won't work correctly if the cat is removed. It is there to make sure the cat is working correctly and will look for a smaller amount of fuel and other gases in the exhaust. If you can't get a catalytic converter between the two sensors, a 'temporary repair' until things become available again is to put a spacer between the 02 port in the exhaust pipe and the 2nd o2 sensor. Normally this is several cm is length so you will need something threaded to fit your o2 sensor into on one end and threaded to fit into the hole in your exhaust on the other side. This will do nothing to solve any air/fuel ratio issues, but it will take the ECU out of Open Loop and make it think the cat is doing what it is supposed to do. As a disclaimer: This is illegal on any and all vehicles operated on roads within the United States of America and for off road/track use only. Not sure of the legal status of doing this in the Ukraine at the moment so that's for you to decide if it is or isn't an option for you.

 

Thanks for a tip! Iʼm waiting for the delivery of the cat, but this is a not main problem. The main problem in the spider, i can`t find where to buy it without sending my own for repair.

 

You're in a bad situation right now trying to get an AC Delco spider shipped to you and I don't know that the multiport fuel injection 'upgrade' from the poppet valves you have was available from the factory on anything that you'd be able to find locally. I haven't swapped mine out yet to see if the original spider 'body' is the same on the 'upgrade' unit. If it is, then it might be possible for you to source the injector 'legs' somewhere local and perform the upgrade yourself without depending on shipping to get parts. I know the intake manifold gaskets (which you'll want to replace) are the same but I don't know if the injector arms will click into place since the spider arms are held in the body with a metal plate. Maybe someone else here knows for certain if it's a yes or a no situation. I unfortunately do not.

 

Unfortunately I have the first spider design(СPI). And i have a plan to try to install the legs with valves from the repair kit for the second design(SCPI). I don`t really know is it possible but i`ll try. and before that, I will try to fix the spider by washing it in an ultrasonic bath. Hope this helps

 

If you can get the appropriate plastic tubing locally and your up for it, this might help.
https://www.instructables.com/Poor-M...Vortec-Fuel-I/
Good luck, and hopefully the supply lines open back up sooner vs later for you. Stay safe.