Thanks!
I cleaned the Spyder finally without taking it apart, and now it works properly. I hope this will help for a long time.

 

Good to hear that it's running again! You might want to do whatever you did a few more times periodically (if you used seafoam or some other in fuel cleaner) just in case you're still on the borderline of it clogging up again.

 

Hehe, seafoam makes magic. But this time I had to remove the spider and wash it with ultrasonic cleaner.

Now having fun with timing chain(it needs to be replaced).


and I really want to wash engine bay with a high-pressure washer.

 

It varies some from year to year but I 'think' you have to remove the oil pan to get the timing chain out without damaging the oil pan.It's one of the lesser known hazards of the 4.3L in a Blazer but thankfully I found out before tearing into mine as a preventative maintenance measure. If this is something you want to do to fix a cam retard issue, you should know that it's not regulated by the timing chain. It's (the cam retard) regulated by the distributor gear.

 

My blazer has a lot of problems, and it's my fault that I didn't talk about them one by one. First I solved the problem with overheating, that led me to electrical issues, and problems with timing chain. Then I had to leave Blazer for the whole winter. And now i`m solving:
But i have many many problems with my 1995:
1) I'm not sure if the cooling system is sealed (for many reasons, I had to leave the car with the mixture of coolant and water in cooling system throughout the winter)
2) somebody before me fixed stripped thread of central harmonic balancer bolt with locktite(less than a half of the thread remained there, the rest is smooth). The same problem with harmonic balancer key (only сold welding glue).
3) traditional problems with CPI spider and Injector feed and return line(inside plenum)
4) some electrical problems (some of the sensors show limit values) and i get reach fuel and misfires because of it
5) some body issues.
6) i can`t find where to buy trans fluid cooler line fittings

 

Yeah, replacing the main crankshaft bolt is a good idea, make sure there are still threads on the INSIDE in good condition as well or you're not really solving the problem. Also, I DO recommend some blue loctite on that bolt so it doesn't back out. You do need it. The balancer key doesn't care either way as far as I know, it just needs to stay in place during assembly then the mechanical joint should keep it there.
CPI I think you have fixed for now?
Each electrical problem is going to have a different solution. The Cam Retard should be +/-5 degrees from what I've been told on here and that has to do with a gear connected to the distributor shaft. If it's 'close' I've heard of people elongating the hole on the tab that holds the distributor in place to get a some more adjustment out of it. Depending on what condition the gears that the distributor drive are meshing with are in... this could work well for you considering you're limited on shipping options for the immediate future at least and it's a 'free' fix other than wear and tear on a drill bit/grinding tool.
The transmission cooler lines, I don't have the fitting sizes available to me but you might be able to find them online if whomever is making the new lines can't find them. Normally, they're a quick-fit, press in line but I'm guessing that you want to remove the adapter plugs in the transmission and the cooler itself? It's a decent amount of pressure and the 4L60E is finicky enough as it is so I'm not sure I'd trust a fitting that I personally crimped on without a real hydraulic crimping machine (there's a reason they're hard lines) to not leak at some point in the future. It might be easier to replace the o-rings at the quick connects and try to weld those connections onto a 'new' hard line maybe? Either way, I'd try replacing the o-rings first if you don't see any holes in the line you currently have.

 

Unfourtnetly treads inside are stripped too. i plan to drill this hole to 11.5 mm. and make new 1/2-20 thread. At first I wanted to switch to metric m12-1.25, but the hole for m12 should be 10.7 millimeters. That`s why 1/2 will be fine.

I had problems with the delivery of a new CPI spider, so I temporarily cleaned poppet walves of the old one with ultrasonic cleaner, and now it works properly, so problem with CPI is fixed.

Regarding electrical problems - there are soooo many of them that I will have to look for them and fix one by one.

And finally 1995 has this style fittings on radiator and transmission housing both. And previous owner made nut edges smooth with wrong metric wrench.

 

If you haven't tried to use a thread chaser tap yet, I'd still try it before drilling anything. Sometimes there's still enough 'there' that the chaser will straighten things up. Before you drill, make sure the bolt you plan on using still fits through the hole in the balancer! I know helicoil gets a bad reputation but most of the time the failures are caused by a bad installation. I'm not saying it would be my first choice for retapping a crankshaft but we're pretty much stacking bandages on top of bandages with this particular truck out of need, not want and I know machine shops that have helicoiled crankshafts without any issues. If you're worried about it working it's way out, throw some loctite 2620 (high heat applications up to 650F) of 262 (up to 350F) if you can't get the 2620 for the helicoil to crank joint, NOT the bolt to helicoil joint or you'll never get it back out without a torch.
As for the transmission cooler line, I'm at a loss as to the exact size but if you can figure out what size wrench 'used to work' before it was rounded off (use flare nut/line wrenches with plenty of penetrating oil in the future to help prevent it happening again), The supply store should be able to figure it out. Either way, try to capture as much of the transmission fluid for re-use if it isn't burned up, your clutch material is likely floating around in it and without it, you're looking at rebuilding the transmission on top of everything else too! Are you feeling that warm glow of owning a Chevy Blazer yet? 😁 Spray the current fittings down with penetrating oil and grab your best pair of vice grips if both the male and female fittings are rounded off and prepare a 2 page list of profanities to practice before removing them. If only one is rounded off, grab the flare nut wrenches (they look like a 6pt box end with a slot cut out of then to fit over the hard line and then engage most of the surface area of the fitting) AND your vice grips for the rounded fitting. You'll have to hold one and turn the other or you'll twist and Kink the hard line, ruining it. If it's already ruined, put the catch pan under the break and focus on removing the fitting with a standard box end wrench, preferably 6pt and not 12pt since 12pt engages just the 'points' of the fitting and tends to slip and round off the fitting where the 6pt engages the flats and the points of the fitting and is far less likely to round off if you use the correct size. If you can't get a flare nut wrench, you can cut a 6pt box end but they will flex more than one originally designed to be one. Cut on a flat and not a point and on the trailing edge. Hmm, how to explain trailing edge, right? If the wrench is on the fitting and hanging straight down towards the ground, the handle is at 6 o'clock. Turning counter clockwise (lefty loosey) the trailing edge would be to the right side. For tightening, to the left.

 

Thread repair tests:


I used a system similar to timesert (Huhnsolutions) for the head bolt threads that cut loose in the aluminum block on a Toyota 4 banger and that repair has lasted 125,000 hard work truck miles. Truck is at 285,000 miles now and runs great. Nothing wrong with helicoil if the work is done right. On all thread repairs, watch your depth. Measure twice, drill once.


George

 

I have already chosen TIME-SERT, but finally decided to drill and rethread to 1/2 inch. Now waiting for delivery of drill and chaser. Maybe TIME-SERT will be better, but I can't find the reason why.