Sometimes it starts...sometimes it doesn't.

97 2dr 4x4 5spd.

When it doesn't start, I turn the key to the crank position, the power all comes on, but then it just does nothing.

When it does start, there is nothing abnormal, no long crank, no sputtering, it starts right up like normal.

Friends have suggested the following to me: Ignition Switch, Starter, Clutch safety sensor.

Im not really all that mechanically inclined, but Im poor as hell, so I have to fix it myself.

Also, it seems to have the trouble, when it does, when I have been driving it for awhile. Once it gets hot, if I shut it off, I wont be able to restart it.

 

First thought: the starter gets hot during driving and then it will not engage. Only way I can think of to check this is to add a wire to the solenoid terminal and bring it up into the engine compartment so that when it does not turn over, you can check the voltage.

This will tell you that the ignition switch is working by applying 12 volts to the starter and that the clutch safety switch is working. If no 12 volts, then jumper across the clutch safety switch to eliminate it.

2nd thought: Tapping the starter with a hammer and then try starting again.

Of course all of these ideas require getting under the vehicle.

 

The guy that helped me start my truck last time it did this banged the starter, it didn't help. He was the one that suggested the clutch safety switch thing....he even explained to me what it was, where it was and how to use a paper-clip to bypass it....but I haven't been able to figure out how to do it anyways lol.

 

May wanna check ur spider...sounds like what our 2000 2dr 5spd did for months and we ended up having to send it to the shop

 

WTF is "my spider"?

 

Those are your fuel injectors, don't worry about that now, your going in the right direction with electrical. If when it cranks it starts you have fuel.

I think Lanny has a good protocal to follow.

 

So if I was to shove my digital camera into my dash, could someone point out what part the clutch safety switch is?

 

Get a light and put your head under the steering column and look at where the clutch pedal pivots. There is a switch that is connected to the clutch pedal. If Chevy has not changed their wiring colors, probably a purple wire, about a 12 AWG wire.

Pull the connector off and jumper the connector terminals with a paper clip.

Just be sure to put the trans in neutral or remember to push the clutch pedal in before starting. This only eliminates this switch. It could still be the ignition switch failing and not putting 12V to the starter solenoid. Banging on the starter only works if the solenoid is just stuck...it still needs 12V in order to move.

Keep after it....you can do it.

 

yeah forget your spider, until next month, but if you do want to burn it, the spider might be the right place to start ;-)

 

****Its the CM that is mounted on the heat sink right at the top passenger side of the engine.( Aluminum heat sink...cant miss it..right at the top. the icm is attached to it)

Buy a new one($74), and buy the silver heat paste at radio shack ($14).
take the whole assamble ( heat sink and CM mod) off the braket its mounted to because this is the cause of the problem. The bracket is mount to the engin and IT conducting heat back up from the engine causes all the problems.

After replacing the CM and applying the new heat paste, tye wrap the entire thing on the cables coming from the gas peddle to the top of the engine that are right in front of it , in such a manner that the air flow from the radiator will run down the length of the heat sink fins.

Simply tye wrapping will work fine and there is just enough length on the wires to the CM to allow it to reach.

This WILL finally solve this vexing problem. Simply put it is a design fault.
The CM is heat sensitive and is mounted to a heat sink. the problem is the bracket that ITS mounted to is hotter than hades and conducts the heat back into the CM via the heat sink.....crazy but do what I suggest and THAT problem is fixed...