Several odd things going on here. The lack of a cat at all while not unheard of usually requires a few mods to defeat performance issues with the computer. Did it ever run right after you purchased? I’m guessing no. Water in fuel like that at amounts your thinking could have had serious effects on fuel pump and other parts. If pump is bad there goes the power. Did you test the pressure, I’m not even talking a full big test just a pressure check at the valve under hood? Man, there is a lot to deal with here and you need to step back and take them one at a time. Too many changes all at once and can throw off another issue entirely.

Let’s go engine first. Get a proper fuel pressure test, instructions are in the diy section. https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...e-first-30093/ You need to have the engine running right to even worry about moving the Blazer. After that, you say no codes which I still find odd if no cat install on exhaust without prior owner doing a few mods and those need to be looked over. Suggest a search on removal of catalytic converters and what’s involved so you can rule out that is causing troubles. Next would be the usual, checking spark, sensors, injectors etc. Sorry no magic bullet or wand for this, going to just run down the check list to find cause.

 

As far as I can tell from a full scan the cat was deleted properly. I can't believe I didn't notice it when I looked at it to begin with. Before I go off the line I'll start from the beginning. After seeing it had no gas cap and almost no feul I dropped the tank cleaned it out and flushed the lines. Cleaned the feul pump. Checked the pressure and it's fine. changed plugs and wires cap, rotor, coil. Got it running like a top. Drove it for a couple days and it ran fine. I think it might be an issue with the transmission. I'm going to do a flush fluid and filter change on the transmission in hopes that is the problem!

 

I tried to upload a video but it's the wrong file type even though it was a forum video

 

*Moving to 2nd Gen Tech*

 

Never heard of trans preventing rpm from going over 3k when in neutral/park. No pro at this but its all about fuel/air mixture and spark to fire it off. Not throwing any error codes while unable to rev alone have power is just odd still. I guess this condition same when engine cold as when warmed up? Your sure on the physical checks like no water in the oil or visible leaks or audiable cues on what is going on?

I get you did not have this happen until motoring into town in 4 low which meant running some fairly high rpm down to road. Looses power and conclude driveline slowing engine up but I cant put the two together and get there. Oil pressure is good right? Would almost appear that engine is seizing up. What was temp when this whole thing occurred if you happened to notice. Will keep eye out for update.

 

All visual check's are good. No fluid where it shouldn't be. It's running at normal temp. Checked mas air flow it's good. When I went to town I didn't run it hard. Was a slow trip lol And the problem started after I came out and started home. It had a little bit of an issue shifting from 2nd to third but didn't shift hard. I just had to give it a little more throttle then previously. It was at normal temp when it happened and it does the same thing wether it's cold or up to temp. Today I went to mess around with it and low and behold the service engine light came on. Woohoo right? Wrong! Plugged my scanner into it and it says it can't communicate! Boohoo! I took out the old test light and started checking the pins found out that it has next to nothing for power! So this weekend's task will be to trace that down! I'm hoping it isn't the wiring harness! I hate wiring! I know this probably doesn't help but it's what I've got at the moment.

 

I reread the prior post looking for more details. No clue why you would have to take a soldering iron to the pins on the backside of the 2/4/hi/low selector. It’s in the dash, no elements exposed to it so unless abused or busted in process of removal odd thing to occur. Think someone had a spare basically for free in the trade/sale section.

More odd in early post said 4x4 would not engage but the later after you worked on it stuck in 4 low? You did not mix up those lines when you replace all that vacuum tubing did you? Almost seems like it then forced the selector out of dash and broke it? Ya ya, I know but dang odd. So moving on, after this work you drive it in 4 low and on return it basically dies, no power. Said resistor bad on tccm and replaced. Saw on other related forum post from you then said something about truck seemed to lurch starting stopping and thought trans was binding to engine causing problem.

Well, keep it all to one posting, hard when you bounce around. So you backtrack and at start you get this Blazer and drop and clean tank and line and pump. Pressure test ok so then change plugs, wires, cap ,rotor and drove it a couple of days and ran fine. Then...assume noted stuck in 2hi and 4wd not functional. You do your repairs that you think should fix it. We skip forward and it now stuck in 4 low and then dies. Have I pretty much got the line of events correct?

If this is about the way things went only few things jump to mind. Initial vacuum line repair has an error is first. Would explain improper transfer case operation and could be source of engine de-rate. Someone chime in here- what is the default operation of the transfer case if the selector switch is unplugged? Does it just hold last setting? I should google it. Next would be electrical- the resistor you replaced should not just fail, well burn up more like it and fuses normally protect this from occurring. Make one hell of a smell when they do and seeing it was running ok for a few days still think something else caused it to fail. I’ll sleep on it, getting late. Do a favor, in your next post- lay out all info detail wise about this Blazer. If the cat was deleted I got to wonder if anything else was modded. So- try to be thoughtful, detail oriented and in some order that helps us on forum assist you.