Ok christine when shorting the switch do you only put it in the left hole or both?
Ok so i had a friend tell me that i can check and see if the switch works by using a paper clip in the left hole of the switch and turning on the ac after doing that my ac turned on but the air was hot and there was no click signaling that the compressor kicked on

 

Pull the connector off of the accumulator and short the two holes in the wire connector with a paper clip (both holes).

George

 

George when I bypassed with both holes my clutch/cog looking thingy started spinning and everything. Does that mean I need a new compressor?

Also I'm super sorry that I'm not understanding you guys very well and you have to explain everything in laments super dumb term

 

Don't worry about it, well help you along.

Since the compressor started that means one of two things is wrong. Either the pressure switch has failed and needs to be replaced or there is not enough refrigerant charge in the system. If you mean that your refrigerant charge is 35 psi with the system at rest/not running then your charge is low. At rest it should be around 100 psi on an 85F day. When running that same reading should be around 50 psi on an 85F day.

George

 

Did the AC system start blowing cold air when you shorted the two leads in the plug for the pressure switch? If yes, then the problem is with the switch. If not, then you should check how much refrigerant is in the system as it could be low like George suggested.

 

Ok so after bypassing the switch my clutch started working so I went and got a new clutch sensor but when I connected up the new sensor to the compressor the clutch still isn't working and it's still blowing hot air

 

How do you check the refrigerant? Because when I use the bottle and gauge it says I'm at 45 charge now

 

Ok so I managed to get my clutch working I had to bypass the compressor so that the clutch would start working after that I noticed I was in the green to fill it and so I started to fill it all of a sudden the clutch started kicking on and off every few seconds so I stopped and I noticed that when it is on my meter is in the green but when it kicks off the meter is in the red and when it hits 100 psi it kicks back on

 

What sensor did you replace? The low pressure/cycling sensor on the accumulator? You are saying clutch sensor on the compressor. There is also a sensor on the compressor but its for high pressure cut off.

When an AC system is at rest, the refrigerant equalizes through the metering valve so that the system pressure is the same on the high and low side. This pressure changes with temperature. You would measure the exact same pressure if the refrigerant was in a charging container. At 85F ambient you should be around 100 psi. When the system starts up then the low and high side pressures start to move towards their operating pressures and are quite different. The low side will be 40-50 ish PSI and the high side will be 200 ish psi. The cheap little gauge on a charging bottle from the auto parts store is probably not very accurate but in any event is labeled with a blue region to show the proper range of low side pressure during operation, not at rest. Hook your gauge back up and jumper the connector again to get the system to start running and you will see the pressure drop way below the blue/proper range. Don't run very long like this so you don't damage the system. The reason that your static pressure is higher now is a combination of the cheap gauge and its warmer out now so the 134a pressure is going up.

That said, if your pressure really is 45 PSI at rest, the system should start up momentarily until the pressure drops and then shut off again. Then the system will start equalizing, the low side will start rising and then rinse and repeat. I don't know what the cutoff pressure is on the switch you bought, maybe your right at the limit, especially if its got some hysteresis (comes back on higher than cutoff). If the jumper experiment does cause the gauge to drop below the correct range, say below 30 PSI, then your charge is too low. Now be careful because the proper way to charge an automotive AC system is reclaim, evacuate and then dump in the exact weighed charge as shown on the plate under the hood. If you overcharge a system enough, it can become dangerous and if your compressor is failing then you could have problems. Report back.

George

 

I am not sure how long before I got it that the compressor wasnt working but I know it's been about a year since I had it. I'm also trying to do this with the engine at 210 after driving for a bit I'm gonna try to let it cool down and maybe tonight go back out and see what I can do when its cooler outside

George as soon as I put the first pump in I removed the bypass and put it back on to the high pressure valve I had to replace the high pressure and it seems to be set at 100psi according to my dinky gauge lol I'm hoping it's just because it is too damn hot that I'm having these issues