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Need help with ac compressor clutch?

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Old Jul 31, 2019 | 02:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mechanically_Handicaped
Ok so I managed to get my clutch working I had to bypass the compressor so that the clutch would start working after that I noticed I was in the green to fill it and so I started to fill it all of a sudden the clutch started kicking on and off every few seconds so I stopped and I noticed that when it is on my meter is in the green but when it kicks off the meter is in the red and when it hits 100 psi it kicks back on
You are saying bypass the compressor. Do you mean bypass the low pressure/cycling switch on the accumulator? If thats what you mean, you are pulling the connector off of the low pressure switch on the accumulator, shorting it with a paper clip, the compressor starts running and then the compressor starts cycling? If thats true then there is more than one problem here.

See my post above for why the pressures go up and down.

George
 
Old Jul 31, 2019 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
You are saying bypass the compressor. Do you mean bypass the low pressure/cycling switch on the accumulator? If thats what you mean, you are pulling the connector off of the low pressure switch on the accumulator, shorting it with a paper clip, the compressor starts running and then the compressor starts cycling? If thats true then there is more than one problem here.

See my post above for why the pressures go up and down.

George

Ok so the point that i am pointing at is the high pressure the other little black piece is the low pressure i pulled the switch of an bypassed to get the compresaor running to be able to give it a small charge to stay running after i reconnected it to the high pressure sensor again also i had to buy a new high pressure sensor the location i am pointing at
 
Old Jul 31, 2019 | 02:56 PM
  #23  
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The thing that you are pointing at is the low pressure/cycling switch/sensor and it is mounted on the accumulator. There is a high pressure switch but it is 4 feet away mounted on the back of the compressor. You cannot remove the high pressure switch without reclaiming the refrigerant charge first as there is no schrader valve and it would be dangerous to do so.

You are pulling the switch off or you are removing the connector to the switch so that you can jumper the wires inside the connector to the switch?

That entire silver can is the accumulator and it is in the low pressure circuit so that other connector with the small cap nearby on the accumulator is also low pressure. Whatever you do don't connect anything to the high pressure side of the system unless you have and know how to use a proper refrigerant gauge set.

The normal place to connect a gauge set are the service ports which are usually found on the respective high and low side hoses in a different place from where you are pointing. Those service ports often times have quick connect fittings which seal with ball valves and lock on with a quick release mechanism, not a threaded sleeve. I am not familiar with the set up on an older truck like yours however.

I still don't understand what you have done. You jumpered the low pressure switch connector and the compressor started? Then you added charge while it was running? Then the compressor started cycling or you reconnected the low side switch connector after you removed the jumper and the compressor started cycling?

George
 
Old Jul 31, 2019 | 03:15 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
The thing that you are pointing at is the low pressure/cycling switch/sensor and it is mounted on the accumulator. There is a high pressure switch but it is 4 feet away mounted on the back of the compressor. You cannot remove the high pressure switch without reclaiming the refrigerant charge first as there is no schrader valve and it would be dangerous to do so.

You are pulling the switch off or you are removing the connector to the switch so that you can jumper the wires inside the connector to the switch?

That entire silver can is the accumulator and it is in the low pressure circuit so that other connector with the small cap nearby on the accumulator is also low pressure. Whatever you do don't connect anything to the high pressure side of the system unless you have and know how to use a proper refrigerant gauge set.

The normal place to connect a gauge set are the service ports which are usually found on the respective high and low side hoses in a different place from where you are pointing. Those service ports often times have quick connect fittings which seal with ball valves and lock on with a quick release mechanism, not a threaded sleeve. I am not familiar with the set up on an older truck like yours however.

I still don't understand what you have done. You jumpered the low pressure switch connector and the compressor started? Then you added charge while it was running? Then the compressor started cycling or you reconnected the low side switch connector after you removed the jumper and the compressor started cycling?

George
When I jumpered the low pressure to get the clutch started and put in a small pump of refrigerant after that I removed the jumper and reconnected the switch to the compressor to see what the actual reading was after that I put in enough refrigerant to place it in the blue on the gauge. However it is kicking on an off every few minutes. I also nosed a rubbing sound from the clutch piece and saw that I an missing a cover nut thing to keep the part from wobbling/rubbing
 
Old Jul 31, 2019 | 03:20 PM
  #25  
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It is normal for the system to cycle under certain circumstances. What is the low side pressure while it is running? What is the center vent temperature with everything on high, the doors and windows closed and the system running for 10 min?

Also, that connector and switch is not connected to the compressor. It is an input to the vehicle control module which controls the compressor relay which controls the compressor clutch.

George
 

Last edited by GeorgeLG; Jul 31, 2019 at 03:24 PM.
Old Jul 31, 2019 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
It is normal for the system to cycle under certain circumstances. What is the low side pressure while it is running? What is the center vent temperature with everything on high, the doors and windows closed and the system running for 10 min?

George
I have not run it for very long because it is still blowing hot air it lowered and is kicking off at 55 psi and starting up at 20 should I just let it run with windows up and on high for a bit?

Current temp out side where I am at is about 95
 
Old Jul 31, 2019 | 03:27 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Mechanically_Handicaped
I have not run it for very long because it is still blowing hot air it lowered and is kicking off at 55 psi and starting up at 20 should I just let it run with windows up and on high for a bit?

Current temp out side where I am at is about 95
So the low side pressure starts to drop after the compressor starts running until the pressure drops below 55 psi, the compressor turns off but the pressure keeps dropping until it hits 20 psi and then the compressor starts back up?

George
 
Old Jul 31, 2019 | 03:33 PM
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No when the psi is at 20 the compressor kicks on until it reaches 55 then kicks off once it kicks off the pressure starts lowering and hits it hits 20 psi again it will kick back on
 
Old Jul 31, 2019 | 03:36 PM
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Thats totally messed up and the opposite of proper function.

Thats with the new or the old switch?

With the connector jumpered, does the compressor run continuously? What is the low side pressure?

George
 
Old Jul 31, 2019 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
Thats totally messed up and the opposite of proper function.

Thats with the new or the old switch?

With the connector jumpered, does the compressor run continuously? What is the low side pressure?

George
New and yes
 



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