Need help with my Oil Lines!!!!!!
I replaced my front ones 3 weeks ago, no problem...
I go to change my rear ones to the block and I cannot even get the old one out.
I got the bolt off the oil adaptor but I cannot remove the lines out.
And I did get the little bolt that supports the lines.
I started from the front back.
And I need to replace the seals for the adaptor itself, is there a easy way to do it?
How do I get the lines out. I tried every way to manuver them to come out, no dice...
I thought this was easy... I read alot of posts about the lines..
BTW I have a 2001 Blazer LT, 4WD....
Thanks
Jim
I go to change my rear ones to the block and I cannot even get the old one out.
I got the bolt off the oil adaptor but I cannot remove the lines out.
And I did get the little bolt that supports the lines.
I started from the front back.
And I need to replace the seals for the adaptor itself, is there a easy way to do it?
How do I get the lines out. I tried every way to manuver them to come out, no dice...
I thought this was easy... I read alot of posts about the lines..
BTW I have a 2001 Blazer LT, 4WD....
Thanks
Jim
On most of the ones I have done, I have had to jack the engine up a bit. On one extreme case, I had to disconnect the motor mount. We ended up replacing the motor mount while we were at it because it was sagging significantly.
Since you have the support bolt out there is only the 1 bolt holding the hose assembly to the adapter at the rear of the block. The hose assembly should just pull forward from the adapter. From there as Swartlkk said you may or may not have to take the motor mount loose & jack the engine up. The lines will go straight forward along the side of the block to get them out. If you did not figure it out already use a few long extensions on your ratchet coming from the front to get the bolt out of the center at the adapter. If your extensions or socket don't fit well wrap them with electrical tape to keep them from coming apart.
All of the the mounting bolts are out, it's just getting the lines out and the new ones in.
I'll try jacking up the engine a bit hopefully that works.
Yeah, I figured out that you need long extensions and a swivel for the socket.
This is a PITA!!! The front that goes to the radiator was cake compared to this one...
Thanks Guys....
I'll try jacking up the engine a bit hopefully that works.
Yeah, I figured out that you need long extensions and a swivel for the socket.
This is a PITA!!! The front that goes to the radiator was cake compared to this one...
Thanks Guys....
If you have to jack the motor up which you need to do on some models. Place a piece of 2x4 between the mount & frame and let the motor down on that so there is no way the motor could fall & crush your hamd.
Once you have enough clearance they just come right out.
I tried to jack the engine up a little to see if I could get the line out using a 2X4 and jack but no dice.
I reconnected everything and going to let a guy near me install the line.
The one good thing was that I was able to put new gasket and seal on the oil adaptor on the block.
Thanks everyone for your help!
Jim
I reconnected everything and going to let a guy near me install the line.
The one good thing was that I was able to put new gasket and seal on the oil adaptor on the block.
Thanks everyone for your help!
Jim
Well got them done yesterday and I watched him, I know these guys, and he tilted the engine on the passenger side and they came out.............
I thought you had to lift the engine a little bit from the oil pan (I used a 2X4)....?
But anyhoo it's done...
Then I had them check the alignment and it was WAY out of alignment, the steering wheel was tilted over to the right, before I got the new front end it was tilted to the left.
They make nice and got everything to spec, caster camber toe....It cool how they use the new alignment machine's, my father had the old ones with the slide screens... (that was 25 years ago, but the machine was about 20 years old, but he always got the alignments dead on b*lls)
So now the steering wheel is centered like new...
Then they said my shocks in the front were shot, the blue monroes (didn't know they were the cheapies, the A*shole who installed them told me they were the best I believed him like an a*s, I got screwed by hime he charged me 400.00 for 4 including install. Found out those blue ones go for like 20.00 and they are the lowest bottom monroes) he quoted me and in the back of my mind I'm like autozone here I come...
I got out of there and went to autozone, bought 2 Gabrial gold or something, 30.00 a piece... I installed them today... The old ones were trash they were shot big time....
The blue ones were installed 6/2008.. how could they of gone bad that fast? I know they were cheap but come on....
I thought you had to lift the engine a little bit from the oil pan (I used a 2X4)....?
But anyhoo it's done...
Then I had them check the alignment and it was WAY out of alignment, the steering wheel was tilted over to the right, before I got the new front end it was tilted to the left.
They make nice and got everything to spec, caster camber toe....It cool how they use the new alignment machine's, my father had the old ones with the slide screens... (that was 25 years ago, but the machine was about 20 years old, but he always got the alignments dead on b*lls)
So now the steering wheel is centered like new...
Then they said my shocks in the front were shot, the blue monroes (didn't know they were the cheapies, the A*shole who installed them told me they were the best I believed him like an a*s, I got screwed by hime he charged me 400.00 for 4 including install. Found out those blue ones go for like 20.00 and they are the lowest bottom monroes) he quoted me and in the back of my mind I'm like autozone here I come...
I got out of there and went to autozone, bought 2 Gabrial gold or something, 30.00 a piece... I installed them today... The old ones were trash they were shot big time....
The blue ones were installed 6/2008.. how could they of gone bad that fast? I know they were cheap but come on....
Last edited by blazerJim1701; Dec 1, 2009 at 02:03 PM.
On AutomotiveForum.com under the Chevy Blazer section, you'll have to do a search but there is an excellent write up on replacing the lines with pictures. They use steel braided lines & fittings instead of the OEM lines. If I ever have to replace mine that is the way I will go.
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